OMGEE I MISS YOU GUYS

I finally have wifi for one quick minute and I wanted to say hello! and I miss you! and I'll be back to regular programming early next week….

In lieu of a real post, allow me to offer you a short list of things I've eaten/imbibed thus far on my travels in Seattle + NYC:

1 1/2 doz oysters (YAYS!)

1 rare burger on a gluten-free bun (YUM)

1 Gogol cocktail (horseradish vodka + pickled quail egg -- I mean, how could I not??)

1/2 container of mixed schawarma purchased on the street at 2am last night (perhaps I shouldn't have)



Photo by Thomas Hannnich via Celia

So you want to get married in New Orleans (or, ESB: Hurricane Edition)

This is a new style TRAVEL-GUIDE-MEETS-WEDDING-FEATURE post.

What happened was, I got one request for a New Orleans travel guide and one query from a bride who wanted to get married there and NOBODY on twitter was responding to my pleas. Then kidchamp stepped in (as she is wont to do) and bragged about her badass friends who threw a badass wedding in New Orleans.

Sarah and Judd live in Brooklyn with their ungrateful cat, Doug. She is a book editor and he is the lead singer of Visible From Space, a New Orleans-style funk rock band.

I'll let Sarah take it from here:

There is no party like a New Orleans party.

My husband grew up there, we spend a lot of time in the Crescent City as it is (we live in New York), and when we got engaged a couple of months after Hurricane Katrina, we felt a responsibility to bring some joy back to the city that had brought so much joy to us – not to mention bring in a hundred party-ready tourists who would no doubt have the time of their lives and then keep on coming back and spending their money in the Big Easy.

The three most important aspects of our wedding were the music, food, and drink. We wanted an all-out party with a live band and endless dancing, so we eschewed the traditional sit-down dinner in favor of a concert-like reception in the Parish Room at the House of Blues. The ceremony was held outdoors in their Voodoo Garden, which is essentially a bar. (See "most important aspects.")

(Image courtesy of House of Blues)

After extensive research all over the South, we hired a live (and local) band – The Boogie Men – who already had Lyle Lovett's "She's No Lady" and Rick James' "Give it to Me Baby" in their repertoire. Done. The House of Blues catered with a long list of passed hors d'oeuvres and buffet items from their excellent menu (hush puppies, fried oysters, brisket, etc.), and they accommodated my desire for a mashed potato bar, served in martini glasses with toppings like shredded cheese, chorizo, sour cream, and hot peppers.

We used a local party decorator for just a few table cloths and centerpieces for the larger round tables (we needed enough sit-down space for grandparents and a rotating cast of exhausted dancers) and everything else was covered by the already-awesome interior design of the Parish Room. The Boogie Men played on an elevated stage which added to the concert-like vibe and high cocktail tables scattered around the fringe of the dance floor gave people a place to pause, chow down, then get back to the party.

But I'm getting ahead of myself.

Most of our guests arrived in New Orleans on Thursday night, since, if you're going to a wedding in New Orleans, why not get down there a couple days early to eat your face off and bask in the 85-degree April temperatures? We offered special rates at three hotels which we chose for central location (i.e. the French Quarter) and relative proximity to our events. Most people stayed at the Royal Sonesta which is a beautiful, large hotel on Bourbon Street and is home to my very favorite red beans in all of the FQ: Desire Oyster Bar. There's an interior courtyard with a pool, and I'm here to tell you the Bridal Suite is perfect for a group of moms and bridesmaids getting ready on the morning of, and enjoying the in-room Jacuzzi with your husband the morning after!

On Thursday afternoon we had lunch with my parents at one of our favorite restaurants, NOLA (an Emeril Lagasse spot); if it had been around in 2007 we probably would have gone to our new favorite Domenica at the Roosevelt Hotel (Chef John Besh). That night we gathered everyone in the courtyard at Pat O'Brien's, a legendary New Orleans bar and perfect for large groups. We drank hurricanes and hung out by the fire fountains until the wee hours. Even my grandmother made her way to Pat O's! We did not avail ourselves of karaoke that night but a different group could have a lot of fun at the on-site piano bar.

[Editor's Note: Given that our east coast friends, Sarah and Judd included, are currently weathering Hurricane Sandy, I had to include this Hurricane recipe, courtesy of Pretty Fakes.]

We didn't have the wherewithal to plan one of those wedding weekends with activities up the wazoo – as mentioned, we basically stuck to the three tenets of food, drink, and music. If you wake up in New Orleans on a beautiful sunny Friday morning in the middle of the French Quarter and can't amuse yourself until the rehearsal dinner, well, there's no helping you. But some things we could have told people to do?

• Start your day at Cafe du Monde with an order of beignets and cafe au lait. 

• Walk down to the French Market and acquire some tchotchke to remind you of your trip.

• Walk along the Mississippi River; if you're feeling brave, take a ride on the Steamboat Natchez.

• When it's next time for alcohol, get thee to the Old Absinthe House (conveniently located next door to the Royal Sonesta) for the best Bloody Mary in the city. We've done several taste tests, we know this to be fact.

• If you really feel the need to go to Audubon Park or visit the WWII museum, that's great, but shouldn't you be eating lunch? Some of our favorite lunch spots are Stanley's, Acme Oyster House or Felix's for po' boys; Sylvain for their giant fried chicken sandwich; the aforementioned NOLA or Domenica; and Desire Oyster Bar for oysters, red beans, and cold beer.

(Beignets from Cafe du Monde by Rachelle Bowden via Chicagoist)

And for my husband's favorite sandwich of all time (the debris po' boy) and site of our rehearsal dinner on Friday night –  run, do not walk –  to Mother's on Tchoupitoulas and Poydras. We rented out the then-newly renovated giant back room at Mother's (Mother's Too) for about 100 people but any time of day is a good time to be eating those po' boys. My favorite is half fried shrimp and half fried oyster, because I'm indecisive like that. The "debris" is made up of all the little shavings from their roast beef po' boys that fall down into the vat of meat juice as the slices are being cut. Then they scoop up mounds of flavorful, juicy beef and dump it on a loaf of French bread (always order your po' boy "dressed" with mayo, cabbage, tomato, and pickles) and your job is to eat it before it falls apart. Did I mention they also serve root beer?

(Oyster po' boy courtesy of Lick My Spoon)

After the rehearsal dinner most of our group wandered back to Bourbon Street and found themselves a good time in any number of small, elegant bars (The Carousel Bar at the Hotel Montleone; the Sazerac Bar at the Roosevelt) or loud, smoky, cheap-drink dives with live music, mostly cover bands, playing all your favorite drunken singalong hits (Cat's Meow, The Bourbon Cowboy, Fais Deaux Deaux, The Famous Door, Fat Catz, Funky 544, the list goes on...).

It may or may not be true that some members of the wedding party spend some quality time at Rick's Cabaret. I'll not comment further.

On Saturday morning, the bridesmaids (wearing BCBG) and moms gathered in the Bridal Suite at the Royal Sonesta while the groomsmen got into their seersucker suits and smoked custom rolled cigars (which we'd ordered and picked up from the Cigar Factory on Decatur); those became party favors at the end of the night as well.

Eventually, I walked a few blocks through the French Quarter in my wedding dress (Claire Pettibone – perfect for the shabby-chic, romantic FQ vibe) with my dad to the House of Blues; the photographer, Stacy Marks (highly recommend him), documented our journey.

The wedding party huddled up at the bar at the HOB and my dad and I shared a champagne toast upstairs in the ultra-fancy Foundation Room before the ceremony began. Then we walked in to the Voodoo Garden to get the party started:

After the ceremony, our guests were led outside and along Decatur Street by a New Orleans Dixieland jazz band and did a traditional second line dance up to the front entrance of the House of Blues. Sadly I have no photos of people waving their "Sarah & Judd" handkerchiefs around, as we stayed behind to take wedding photos and eat mashed potatoes before commencing the real party upstairs in the Parish Room.

People danced until they dropped, then got up and danced some more.

Including my mom.

The cake was one of our favorite New Orleans desserts rather than a traditional wedding cake. A chocolate doberge (pronounced "dough-bash") from Gambino's, which is twelve alternating layers of yellow cake and cold chocolate pudding, all encased in a thin chocolate fondant icing. Because the doberge cakes are so heavy, we found out they didn't stack well, so we just ordered like seven of them and didn't worry about a pretty display. Once people started eating it, there were no complaints. 

For most people, the party continued well into the morning hours on various hotel balconies along Bourbon Street, and probably a few clubs that should remain nameless. In part because we knew how much fun everyone was destined to have at the wedding itself, we refused to partake in a day-after brunch (we had that Jacuzzi, after all) so our family and guests were on their own come Sunday morning. 

Something tells me nobody had any trouble finding a hangover-curing brunch.

(Unless credited otherwise, all photos are by Stacy Marks)

What should a couple of Angelenos do in MIAMI?

Hey ESB,

I know this is last minute, but I thought you and my fellows readers might have some tips on places to see/do/eat in Miami. I am taking my husband there for his 30th birthday next week, and neither of us have ever been there. 

Why, you ask, did we decided to pick Miami for our trip? Well, we're both really curious what it's like, love cuban food, and imagine it's somewhat like LA in that it has lots of hidden neighborhoods worth exploring but with warmer beaches. Other than rollerblading, what do cool people do in Miami?

We're not into night clubs, but I am looking forward to going out for some fancy cocktails at the Delano or somewhere swank (he's a teetotaler, but loves a good club soda). We love food. We love living seeing cities from different angles. I love gardens. He loves pinball. Oh, and he loves Miami Vice.

Our home-base will be this awesome airbnb rental in North Miami.

So, I'm looking for suggestions for a great coffee place (like Intelligentsia or Handsome or Cafe de Leche), a delicious birthday dinner, and other secrets I might not otherwise find on yelp. (Is it just me, or is yelp the least helpful thing these days?)

Thanks!

*****

I put out a tweet, and the universe gave us Caro. This lady grew up in Miami, went to college outside of LA and decided to return to her hometown, where she spends her free time eating, tweeting and drinking gin. She is awesome.

Here are Caro's recommends (and a few non-recommends) for Miami:

First things first: Miami, like Los Angeles, has awful terrible public transportation. If you're feeling adventurous you could venture onto a bus, but you might get shanked, aggressively cat-called and offered questionably sourced narcotics all from the same person. Or at least this is what I have been told; no self-respecting native would be caught dead on a bus. One of my friends just got punched IN THE FACE by a stranger on the train last week. He dislocated his jaw. This is a true story. This is not a joke. Legit, punched.

Coral Gables and Downtown/Brickell/Design District have some free “trolleys” (read: glorified bus) that are more bourgeoisie-approved, clean and probably safer since they don’t run through questionable parts of the city like the metro does. (Think: park your car once and use the trolley to get around the general area.)

I would recommend renting a car. Car2Go just launched as a more eco-friendly Smart-car sharing alternative you could look into, your rental is right on the edge of their “home area” and it looks like you might only have to walk a few blocks to get to a car.

Once you have a car, you’re going to want to stock up on some snacks for your stay, head to the nearest Publix and hit up the bakery for some croquetas de jamon, pastelitos de guava y queso and some chocolate chip cookies because they are fucking amazing. You might also want to pick up some Limon Pepino (Lime-Cucumber) Gatorade, because I’m pretty sure it’s regional and it is delicious! Side note: unlike California, supermarkets don't sell liquor here  – only beer and wine –  so if you want to buy your own booze you'll have to search for a separate liquor store. I know; it sucks.

As you suspected, Miami has a bunch of little neighborhoods with their own personalities, so I've organized this list by geographical area.


Coral Gables ("The Gables")

Eat: Eating House – some of the most creative, fattening, delicious food in Miami served by the nicest people in town. Come for a casual weeknight meal or the highest-calorie Sunday brunch (1-5PM) of your life (Cap'n Crunch Pancakes covered in condensed milk. Carbonara Eggs Benedict etc etc), either way don't miss the tomato salad (served with nitro-blasted coconut milk, micro herbs and edible flowers for extra fanciness).

(Carbonara Eggs Benedict from Eating House via Thrillist Miami)

Their menu changes daily, but mainstays and crowd favorites are the Pasta Carbonara, Chicken and Waffles and Charred Corn. (Pro-tip: for instant street cred with the staff, be sure to order a Carpano on the rocks. It's sweet vermouth and it's delicious.)

Do: Walk around Miracle Mile. Plenty of cute shops and a great Argentinean bakery for empanadas and dulce de leche filled pastries.

The Biltmore Hotel is dripping with old school charm. Everything they do there is top-notch: food, cocktails, service. The pool at the Biltmore is one of the most unique in Miami, and being off the beach never gets that packed. Splurging for a private cabana will get you the 5-star treatment without spending 5-figures. Cabanas start at $89 a day.

More: Fairchild Tropical Garden (for lots of greenery and exotic flora), Matheson Hammock (waterfront park with boat access and a great romantic seafood restaurant, Red Fish Grill)


Coconut Grove ("The Grove")

Brunch: Green Street serves brunch every day until at least 2 PM, and offers a perfect cure to that Tuesday morning hangover.

Drink: Grab some Icees from A.C.'s in Kennedy Park and enjoy your brain freezes at the waterfront.

See: Burn Notice, set in the old Coconut Grove Convention Center


Calle Ocho/Little Havana

Eat: Versailles – Versailles is the epicenter of Cuban culture in Miami. When the Heat win the playoffs or Castro finally kicks the bucket (or when we pretend he does), Versailles is the place to go with your cazuelas (Cuban for pots and pans) and make as much noise as possible. Other than the culture, the draw here is the food. Beyonce and Jay-Z make Versailles their first stop when visiting town, completely shutting down the back room of the restaurant, but hey, sometimes you just need some moros and platanitos in your life. Anything with pork will be good. For a snack, head to their bakery and pick up some pastelitos and coffee.

(Colada via Arroz y Frijoles)

Cuban coffee is served in three iterations: Café con leche (whole milk lightly stained with espresso), Cortadito (equal parts milk and espresso. Served in a 5 oz cup) or Colada (Sugar stained with espresso, served in 1oz shots. Approach with caution. It’s served in small quantities for a reason. It is jet fuel. It will get you wired. I don’t care how much you think you’re intolerant to caffeine. This is a different beast, trust me.) You can find it all over the city these days, but dozens of little “cafesito” windows line Calle Ocho (8th street) and will provide an authentic experience.

Azucar – Local ice cream shop with some rad flavors, including: Café con Leche, Platano Maduro (sweet plantain), Elvis (peanut butter and banana) and Balsamic Strawberry.

Also recommended: Catharsis, LaCasita

See: Maximo Gomez Domino Park

Do: Viernes Cultural (Cuban ArtWalk), last Friday of every month.

South Beach

Delano is spot on for drinks with a classic South Beach glamour feel. They have a few bars at the hotel: Rose Bar in the lobby, FDR in the basement and a bar out by the pool. I recommend mojitos at the Rose Bar (some of the best in town) or craft cocktails downstairs. Sister hotel Mondrian sits on the opposite side of the island and serves 16 different kinds of caipirinhas. Their west-facing location makes them a perfect spot for watching the sun set over the Miami skyline. Get the chilli-passion caipirinha, it balances passionfruit with siracha for an all around awesome cocktail.

Eat: Choose any of the Pubbelly establishments: Pubbelly Sushi, Pubbelly or Barceloneta are all on the same block and are all tapas style: Sushi, gastro pub and Spanish, respectively. After dinner you can walk over to Purdy Lounge for some drinks and a relaxed local vibe. Their fourth outpost, Macchialina, is Italian and physically distant from the first three, but still delicious and cozy. Get the Americano cocktail and don't miss the short rib and tallegio lasagna.

More recommendations: HaVen (gastro-lounge-meets-acid-trip), Lime (fast-casual-Venezuelan take on Mexican food),

See: Juvia – Get a drink and the Salmon Nashi appetizer, enjoy the view and then leave. This place is pure atmosphere; the panoramic views of Miami Beach are unparalleled and the ambiance is classic see-and-be-seen South Beach. The food, however, is forgettable.

(Miami's South Beach by Alexandra Roberts)

Drink: Broken Shaker – Unfortunately they're closed until November 2012, but if you ever come back, you MUST pay them a visit. The bar chefs behind the cocktail consulting company The Bar Lab created a secret garden drinking den and will wow you with their classic and off-the-cuff cocktails. Walk in, order a "Bartender's Choice" (specify what alcohol and flavor profile you prefer), sit down for some Jenga or battleship or play a little ping pong and say hi to their resident cats.

Do: A Duck Tour – I know, they're super cheesy, but embrace the cheesiness. The Duck Tour down here will give you a good overview of South Beach, drive you down Collins and then through Biscayne Bay were you can peep celebrity houses on Star Island and the mansions used for Miami Vice and Scarface. The highlight of the tour, though, is when they hand you a super soaker to hit unsuspecting tourists on Collins Ave.

Walk around Lincoln Road, it’s the Miami equivalent of Santa Monica Blvd, featuring shops, great people watching and plenty of living statues.

Go to the Beach. The Boucher Brothers provide excellent cocktail, umbrella and lounge chair service on the beach and will treat you like hip-hop royalty. If you’re willing to skip the star treatment, head to South Pointe Park near the southern end of the island for easier parking and fewer crowds.

Crash a hotel pool party. Because the party doesn’t have to stop when the sun comes up. Or you can hit the pool at the Loews for a more relaxed atmosphere.


Brickell

Eat: Edge Steak & Bar for a swank yet approachable date night. Nestled on the 7th floor of the Four Seasons, they excel at service, food and cocktails without being pretentious about it. Stick around after dark for cocktails by the fire pits outside and you might get treated to s’mores featuring graham crackers and chocolate made in house, or come early for their $1 oyster and half-off drinks happy hour (4-7, weekdays). Their signature steak rub and hot sauce are delicious and made from the peppers growing right there on the 7th floor.

Drink: Blackbird Ordinary for expert craft cocktails and a relaxed vibe.The bartenders have plenty of sass, but they make a good drink, so take the attitude with a grain of salt, your Cara Cara will be worth it.

Redlands/Homestead

Do: Take an airboat ride through the Everglades; gators, herons and the theme song from Deliverance playing in your head all day. There a few different companies that offer them, Everglades Alligator Farm is one and they offer a gator wrestling show and a walk through their snake room after the ride. Make sure you stock up on insect repellent beforehand because the mosquitoes don’t quit down there in the swamp.

On your way back to civilization pick up some locally grown exotic fruits and milkshakes at mega-sized fruit stand Robert Is Here (Robert is actually usually there, and super helpful) and some fresh squeezed juice at Palacio de Los Jugos (Mamey or Guarapo, which is made from sugarcane, are both amazing). 

Design District/Wynwood

Eat: Micheal's Genuine Food & Drink, Sugarcane, Mandolin Aegean Bistro, Joey’s

(Miami graffiti by Alexandra Roberts)

Drink: Panther Coffee owners Joel and Leticia have been in the coffee business their whole lives and decided to bless Miami with their expertise, brewing in-house roasted artisan coffee in the middle of uber-hip Wynwood. They source the beans from Nicaragua, Brazil, Columbia etc and their artisan drinks are the best in town. Grab a cappuccino and oogle their antique Perfekt roaster. [Editor's Note: Here is your Intelligentsia.]

Sugarcane, Mercadito, The Corner are all serving up great drinks. Democratic Republic of Beer (tiny bar with 500+ kinds of beer).

See: Wynwood Walls as an intro to the Miami street art scene. The Walls are actually a curated gallery featuring hyper-famous street artists (Shepard Fairey is represented there). Check out mini-documentary, “Here Comes the Neighborhood” for a great teaser. Then, wander the neighborhood (in your car, because it’s still “up and coming”) to browse plenty more larger than life murals.


Wrap-Up

During August and September, a bunch of Miami’s best restaurants participate in Miami Spice and offer prix fixe menus at a discounted rate. Standout deals include: Bourbon Steak (a Michael Mina Restaurant).

For a taste of local flavor before you arrive, be sure to watch the "Shit Miami Girls Say" videos on YouTube. They are spot on, you will see.

Also, I would recommend watching locally-produced documentary "Cocaine Cowboys" so that when you go on the Duck Tour and they tell you Miami Vice spurred Miami's economy in the 70's you can tell them that THEY ARE WRONG, because it was totally the cocaine trade.

[Editor's Note: FUCK YEAH. NOW I NEED TO GO TO MIAMI. p.s. Be sure to check out Caro's six tips for MIAMI-fying your wardrobe.]

where should a couple of Aussies go in HAWAII?

Dear ESB,

FH and I are getting married in Sept in Sydney - great, no problems there. We weren't planning on having a honeymoon due to work commitments, blah blah.

Now good friends of ours are getting married in Hawaii (Kauai) in March and we thought we might go and make it our honeymoon too. Only problem is that I have no idea about where is good to go in Hawaii! I have tried looking online but I have had bad experiences with booking online... the photos seem to lie a lot.

Do you or your readers have any recommendations? We will be going for about 10 days and will spend 4 days on Kauai (at the Outrigger Waipouli beach) for the wedding - after that we need a plan. Not keen on Waikiki or anywhere too touristy - we are beach bums and want something super chilled out and relaxed. Hawaii looks like an awesome place with beautiful scenery and I don't want to ruin it by ending up somewhere built up, in a giant hotel.

Thanks so much in advance!

*****

I enlisted Heather of One Love Photo to help me with this one. Heather's partner Jon is from Hawaii, so they spend a lot of time (and shoot a lot of weddings!) there.

Here's what Heather had to say:

My advice would be to stay on Kauai the whole time and head North to Hanalei right after the wedding.

A perfect day in Hanalei would be; drive to the pier in Hanalei Bay and rent two paddle boards or kayaks. Go for a paddle up the river from the rental place (get a half day rental). Once you get done with your paddle eat some tacos at Pete's Taco truck in the parking lot (best tacos ever). Eat your tacos on the pier with your feet dangling over the edge. Then head over to the bay for a swim. Then drive up to the end of the road to watch the sunset at Ke'e Beach park. 

Have dinner back in Hanalei at Neide's Salsa & Samba in the back of Hanalei Center. Get the kalua pork chimichanga then walk across the street for some people watching, music and a super stiff Mai Tai at Tahiti Nui.

Accommodations

I would recommend renting a condo through VRBO (vacation rental by owner) or Craigslist for a full week while in Hawaii. You will get the best rate if you do a full week. We have scored some great deals through both websites. The last time we visited Kauai we got a two bedroom, two bath fully furnished condo with kitchen, Lanai and full ocean view in Princeville for $125.00 per night! The key is to book your room as last minute as possible to get the cheapest rates. Princeville is a a golf community on the Northshore. Tons of condos, very developed and a little weird but it has great rates and the island beauty is a short 5-10 minute drive right outside of "condoland."

Kauai Food

Kintaro -- On the east side, in Wailua, right after you cross the river going toward the north shore from the airport on your right. The best sushi I have ever had, hands down. Get a Hanalei Roll and have a sake drop. Gets really busy, so you might want to make a reservation.

Postcards -- In Hanalei, on the left right when you first get into town. It is small and lovely and the food is really good. Always lots of hippies in the kitchen ;)

The Hanalei Gourmet -- Go on fish taco night -- they are the best! The Gourmet also has great drinks and live music.

Tahiti Nui -- This is the most classic, local-style, shady-business bar in Hanalei -- it's awesome. Karaoke, cheap(er) drinks, great people watching.

Best Beaches

Ke'e Beach -- The very end of the road, on the north shore. Great snorkeling. This is also where the Na Pali coast begins. If you like to hike, take the trail to Hanakapiai (a couple of miles.) Amazing views! The trail ends in Kalalau Valley, kind of a gnarly hike but you will get amazing pictures!

Tunnels -- This is before you get to Ke'e. Gets really busy, but if you go down the beach in either direction you can usually find your own spot away from people. Really great snorkeling and diving.

Hanalei Bay -- In Hanalei. Sandy, nice, mellow surf (except in winter) great for kayaking or just swimming/walking, etc.

All time Best!

If you're planning to do anything active, I would rent kayaks or Stand Up Paddle Boards and go down the Wailua River on the East side or the Hanalei River. So beautiful!!!

Hit a Farmers market or two. Make sure that one of them is the Tuesday afternoon market in Waipa (just outside of Hanalei when you are heading to the end of the road). It is the best. Everyone lines up right before it opens at 2pm and then when they open it up everyone rushes the stands to get their goods.

Cocktails at the Princeville Hotel -- swanky and spectacular -- get drinks in the lobby at sunset and feel like a rock star.

Other fun stuff to see....

Art Walk in Hanapepe

Waimea Canyon -- Can't miss this, Grand Canyon Hawaii style, eat lunch after your drive up to the viewpoint not before. Small windy roads!

Glass Beach -- AWESOME if you like beach-combing. Do the canyon and glass beach earlier in the week while staying at the wedding resort (less driving).

Thanks, Heather! NOW WE ALL WANT A MAI TAI.

Images by One Love Photo

A TOTALLY NOT COACHELLA RELATED Guide to Palm Springs

My buddy Sam is going to Palm Springs in May, and he asked me for "suggestions on cool places to drink other than the Ace and that place with the purple walls."

What I drummed up from architect/illustrator/design maven Kelly Lynn Waters, is in fact an entire weekend guide:

Palm Springs, how could I have been so blind to you all those years I lived in Los Angeles? Perhaps the incessant sun in LA does not make one search out more incessant sun? I don't know but sometimes I feel like I haven't seen the sun in 10 years living here in San Francisco. Wouldn't it be great if we could mesh the two cities together or at least move them closer? (I'm also voting to move Tahoe closer if we are moving cities around. Wouldn't that be stellar? L.A., S.F., P.S., and Tahoe all within couple hours of each other?) But we aren't moving cities around we are talking about how incredible Palm Springs happens to be so...

I'll admit that I thought it was a bit one dimensional and didn't have much going for it except all that glamour from half a century or more ago but I have to tell you Palms Springs kinda blew me away. To start I always have a difficult time packing for any and all trips. I've been a long time "carry on" girl since my girlscout days when I was told to "only pack what you can carry." This always poses a bit of a problem since I'm always traveling to a city which requires at least four pairs of shoes (something for walking, going for a run, heels, and usually another pair for ensemble reasons) and I can usually only fit in 3. But somehow everything went seamlessly from my closet into my suitcase and I wore every single piece. Of course when you spend most days in your new Malia Mills bathing suit and occasional cover and big hat this makes dressing a little easier. 

Alright let's get down to brass tacks shall we?


Where to Stay:

The Ace (pictured above): Cheap and well designed. Just don't expect much in the way of service here. And if you are anything like me you'll only want to stay here during the week and not on weekends. Do I have to explain that one?

The Korakia (pictured above): An incredible place to stay for a fairly reasonable price with INCREDIBLE service. I swear every gal who works here is gorgeous AND a doll. It's in a great location and feels so private. I don't know how to explain it. It's a gem.

The Parker Palm Springs: Well hello Mister fancy pants. This place is GORGEOUS but it will cost you. But seriously incredibly designed. Book it now. And Jonathan Adler makes me so happy I'm gonna ask him and Simon to move in with me.

Hotel Lautner: And a little out of the way in Desert Hot Springs you have the refurbished hotel originally designed in 1947 by John Lautner of course. I know little more than that as I haven't had a chance to get there yet but an architect like Lautner is worth the pilgrimage.

Or if you wanted to stay out in Joshua Tree you could stay in one of these experimental properties. I lose my breath just looking at them.


Where to Eat + Drink:

Mister Parker's: If you don't stay at The Parker you must at least visit and that means dinner or cocktails.

Viceroy's Citron: While it is a hotel I loved their lunch best, out by the pool or inside to take a break from the sun.

Cheeky's: Brunch or lunch is delicious, organic and affordable.


What to do:

PS Modern Tours: Personally design is at the top of my list when traveling anywhere from the restaurants I choose to the places I stay, to the locations I venture to because what is the point of traveling if you can't view it through the eyes of those that envisioned a place better than they found it? So the first thing I would do is stop at the Albert Frey Tramway Gas Station and pick up a P.S. Modern Tours map. You can tour the area's modern gems either on your own following the map or take Robert Imber's tour. I personally chose to go it alone as I get antsy on tours especially when I usually know more than my tour guide but I have a feeling this guy really knows his stuff and I'm definitely taking the tour next time around.

Frey House II (pictured above): Bribe one of your architecture friends to get you in. It's pricey but it helps pays for the upkeep and restoration of the place. Only architects and students can visit it (but shhhh, how can they make you prove it?) The views are of all of Palm Springs since it's nestled in the mountains. And seriously people there is a damn boulder inside the house anchoring it to the hillside. If that is not reason enough to go I cannot help you.

The Tram (pictured above): Just take it and take a sweater it's colder up there and it's going to shock your used to 100+ degree ass.


Shopping:

Studio 111 (pictured above): I've been shopping for high end furniture since I was barely legal. I've seen so much and unfortunately at this point I'm bored easily. Everyone has the same stuff! But not these kids, they have an incredible inventory of hard to find and obscure pieces and even a few up and comers you've never heard of.

Dazzles: Holy Crap there is sooooo much in this place there is literally not one iota of free space anywhere but what you really want to take a gawk at is the jewelry. I've never in my life seen a collection of costume jewelry like this before. Dazzles is a must go on my list every single time I visit.

Flow Modern Design: This talented design couple just opened their first retail location in Palm Springs. If you take one look at their portfolio I'm sure you'll be curious to pop your head in.

Obviously there are a few holes here but that is what's so great about a place like Palm Springs, you are always going back.

Thanks for the Invite ESB.

Kelly is too classy to include any dive bars (do dive bars even exist in Palm Springs?) but PLEEZ feel free to weigh in below.

Top photo: Peter Stackpole for LIFE via Modern Design, The rest: Kelly Lynn Waters

where should a couple of Aussies go in NYC? (The Follow Up)

Hello ESB

Just wanted to drop you a line to say thanks for posting our What-to-do-in-NYC honeymoon question. 

Firstly, remember these? They were awesome. Perfect for every day and are now broken in to perfection.

Second, the puffer. I took both you and your commenters' advice and took a slim(ish) puffer and a dressier woolen coat. Worked a treat. We arrived on a 14 degree day and I was very grateful for the puff. Was also grateful for the wool when we went out for fancy dinner.

Finally, I want to say a huge thank you to everyone who commented and suggested places to go, things to eat and stuff to do. Amongst many other things we did WD50, walked the Highline, ate at Shake Shack, Grimaldi's, Caracas Arepa, La Esquina, The Meatball Shop, Doughnut Plant and Schiller's. We went down a crazy slide at the New Museum, went to the Brooklyn Flea, and attempted entry to a speakeasy or two...

Thanks to everyone involved with suggestions.

*****

Missing New York like crazeballs over here.

Man I ♥ NY.

What should a pair of Texans do in Louisville, Nashville, Gatlinburg, Asheville + Lexington??

(Hatch Show Print)

Dear ESB,

My husband and I are taking our first post-honeymoon vacation together next month. We're getting the hell out of the cold, gray, bleak Midwestern town where we currently live and heading south for a road trip through Kentucky, North Carolina, and Tennessee (specifically Louisville, Nashville, Gatlinburg, Asheville, and Lexington).

We don't exactly know what to do while we're there, we're just looking for warmer weather, good food, and southern hospitality (we're from Texas, so we miss it). I know this is a long shot, but do you (or perhaps some of your southern readers/twitter followers) have any advice on where we should go/eat/shop? 

We're hoping to find some of the gems that only the locals know about, especially if they won't cost a ton (husband's finishing his PhD, I'm a teacher, so um...not exactly rolling in it).

*****

I've corralled a couple of experts on Nashville and Asheville -- no pun intended -- and I figure I'll let our readers fill in the rest.

Here's Naurnie on Nashville:

When ESB put out the APB on Twitter last week about folks needing Nashville vacation advice, I jumped at the chance. Nashville. My city. I moved away almost two years ago and still I miss it every day. I've put together some things to do in town that are not only local friendly, but also a little touristy just for good measure. Because when you get down to brass tacks, doing some of the touristy junk in Nashville is actually pretty damn fun.

Downtown:

When most people head to Nashville on a vacation, they're normally coming to the downtown area. While, lower Broadway is teeming with rednecks in their cutoffs and Elvis tattoos, the area still offers plenty in the way of cool shit to do (and the people watching can't be beat.) If you are on lower Broadway in the broad daylight, you should hit up the legendary Hatch Show Print. They have been making screen print posters with their distinctive designs since 1879. They've done posters for everyone from the White Stripes to Patsy Cline and everyone in between. They even sell stock posters out of the store front so you can take one home to frame in your kitchen.

(Robert's Western World via Viator)

Just around the corner is the historic Ryman Auditorium, the Mother Church of Country Music and my own personal favorite venue to ever see a show EVER. It was where they broadcast the Grand Ole Opry, among other things, and they offer daily tours. You shouldn't miss it. Johnny Cash kicked the stage lights out in 1965. Those walls hold a lot of stories. Check the schedule, too. You might be able to score some tickets to a pretty bad ass show. You can also walk to the Country Music Hall of Fame. You might not be a fan of country music, but there is a lot of really interesting stuff in there including a car belonging to Elvis (it's tacky in a good way) and Gram Parsons' famous Nudie suit.

IF you are downtown and it is DARK OUTSIDE, you are in luck. You may now visit my most favorite establishment known to man, Robert's Western World. It is the only honky tonk on lower Broadway worth visiting, if you ask me. Boots for sale on the walls, chili cheese fries, and on Friday and Saturday nights they've got the western swing band, Brazil Billy. NOT TO BE MISSED.

East Nashville:

On the other side of the river from downtown is really where most of the cool folks in Nashville spend their free time. It's a neighborhood called East Nashville, and if you ask me it's where the best restaurants are. Have a nice glass of wine in the back yard of Rumour's East, a very lovely wine bar in an old bungalow with a gorgeous back patio. After you've enjoyed your wine, walk on down to Margot Cafe for a very tasty dinner. It's award winning, delicious, and I highly recommend reservations. Across the street from Margot is 3 Crow Bar, a local watering hole. Grab a bushwhacker and hang out for awhile.

Also on the East Side is Marche. It's a GREAT place for brunch and is owned by the same lady who owns Margot Cafe. Again, a reservation on a weekend is highly recommended. Both restaurants have a large focus on local foods. There is also The Pharmacy, an old-school burger parlor & beer garden where you can get specialty burgers and sit outside. Enjoy the spring weather.

(House-made wurst from The Pharmacy by Eric England via Nashville Scene)

Germantown:

Another one of my favorite Nashville haunts is City House. DO NOT MISS THIS. Just don't. It's so good.

Nights in Nashville can be quite fun. I'd say at any given night, hit up the Patterson House for some delicious cocktails. Don't be alarmed; there is no sign on the outside of this old house that serves as a speak easy. They make all of their own bitters and juices, and if you can, get a Sazerac. You will not be disappointed. The Station Inn is also a great place for a night time adventure. It's typically a bluegrass venue, but you can head in there on any given night and see any number of amazing musicians.

12 South:

Imogene + Willie is located in the 12 South area. It's a fabulous little joint that smells so good and has the best stuff. Matt + Carrie, the owners, have designed their own line of denim that they make and sell out of their renovated gas station front. They also have various vintage goods and friendly help. Down the street from Imogene + Willie is Burger Up, a fantastic restaurant with gourmet burgers in a very relaxed atmosphere. Walk another couple of blocks and grab a home made Mexican popsicle from Las Paletas. You can enjoy your tasty treat in the park across the street.

(Imogene + Willie via the K.I.D. Collective)

If you're like me and you can't get enough of digging through bins for vinyl, check out Grimey's for new and pre-loved music. Also, Nashville is home to Jack White's Third Man Records. Visit their brick and mortar location to grab some great vinyl and look at some taxidermy.

My general advice: Enjoy yourself. Ask people around you questions. Nashvillians are so very nice, and they love to talk about their city. They can give you advice about what to do if you find yourself in an unfamiliar location and are always willing to show you where to go. And? Avoid lines at the Pancake Pantry. It looks tempting, I know. But it's disgusting and you don't want to wait in line that long for disappointing pancakes.

****

And here's cevd on Asheville:

ok, so here is the list of MUSTS, followed by the list of if you have times:

1.  cúrate - if you do one thing in AVL, please, PLEASE let it be eating here.  in fact I'd go as far as to say that if you weren't planning a trip to AVL you should change your plans only so you can eat here.  seriously deeeeeeeeelish.

(Cúrate)

2. grab lunch from laurey's and head up into the blue ridge mountains. it's going to be beautiful there until november so it doesn't really matter when you go. but do it, spend some time outside, re-live the hunger games if you must, just go. my favorite spots include graveyard fields and mount mitchell, but here's a list for you, just in case.

2A. 12 bones. you guys i nearly forgot this one, and it is IMPORTANT that you go. maybe just slightly more important that laurey's? you can get 12 bones to go as well, but then you miss out on the never ending bbq sauce and very good beer selection.

3. hit up the j.crew outlet, it's just off the blue ridge parkway, it'll be easy! i know I'm going to be blasted into the ether for even saying j.crew in this post, but whatever. it's one of those honest to goodness outlets where you can buy clothes that say SAMPLE on them. also, they always have madewell denim for like $20 and last time I went I scored the cutest alexa chung for madewell dress.  totally worth it. oh and if you happen to be there on a weekend when they are doing the all out warehouse sale, go. i've found designer dresses with barneys' tags on them. seriously, this is the real deal. [Editor's Note: that's cool. you all know I left this one in because of the madewell thing. right??]

4. grab a beer and walk around downtown, maybe in the reverse order? blue spiral 1, mast general store, and others. just stroll, you'll love it.

5. tupelo honey. the S. AVL outpost is a bit less crowded than downtown, but maybe no longer open for breakfast on the weekdays? if you're downtown, they'll serve you breakfast, but you'll wait. however I will say that the ginger cornbread, warm biscuits, sweet potato pancakes, eggs betty, and grilled cheese are all worth it. also, the S. AVL one is kind of lame in that new big restaurant way. it is by no means a chain, but still, the downtown version is cute and quaint and lively, you might not want to skip it.

(The Orange Peel via Skyscraper City)

6. FRENCH BROAD CHOCOLATE LOUNGE. skip dessert at cúrate, oooh it hurts to say that, and head over to the chocolate lounge. get the highland mocha stout cake and the indian kulfi sipping chocolate. go to bed happy.

7. check the schedule at the orange peel. it's one of the best venues i've ever been to.

now if you find yourself with more time to kill :

DINNER : if you're around for another dinner here is my list in order ... the admiral, doc chey's, limones, posana, and table

SHOPPING : head to biltmore village. there is this great jewelry store there, blue, amazing, they make just about everything in house and i've scored some really wonderful pieces there. the rest of the village is pretty suburban, j.crew. williams sonoma. brooks brothers. lilly pulitzer. but it's cute and cobblestoned and the obama's had dinner at the corner kitchen, so there's that.

STUFF :  i guess you could go to the biltmore estate. people love it. it's huge, and the grounds are well kept. also, do you like to zip line? if so, i'd say go with navitat

NOW I WANNA TO GO ON A ROAD TRIP.