GORG WEDDING ALERT

Sonny thought this wedding might be up my alley.

IT IS.

I mean. Who doesn't like tacos and casually really good-looking people??

Also: Dacia Piersen's photos slay me.

my *new* new year's resolution (spoiler alert: IT INVOLVES TACOS)

my new year's resolutions are bumming me out.

i do this to myself every year. tell myself i'm going to write every morning, then spiral into depression and anger when i don't write (or don't like what i'm writing) and drink whiskey while watching the bachelor and playing fucking letterpress for four hours in a row just to punish myself.



anyhoo.

here's my new resolution.

EAT TACOS.

try a new taco place once a week, or once a month, or whenever i fucking feel like it.


just. eat. tacos.


the photo is my own, from Tacodeli in Austin, which, HOLY SHIT.

i now plan to eat my way through the 10 Essential LA Tacos. if the rest of the recommends are anywhere near as good as Guisados....

Best places to eat/drink/be merry in CHICAGO?

Dear ESB -

I know it's last minute but I'm going to Chicago this weekend and the last time I went was over 5 years ago with my frat-tastic and very cheap college boyfriend (read: all we did was eat pizza and go to some weird Dave and Buster's style bar). 

Do you know anyone who could give me some tips on the best places to eat/drink/be merry? Or would you be willing to put it out to your readers?

Thanks much!

*****

Just call me A MIRACLE WORKER.

Actually, Hillary is the miracle worker. (Remember Hillary? She's the one who overshared her wedding over here.) She's a graphic designer, obvs, and she lives on the north side with her very cool husband and a cat.

Here is Hillary's Guide to Chicago:

Chicago is a city of neighborhoods. I realize that most cities are, but they are really distinct here (like, segregation distinct). In my opinion, there's little reason to spend time downtown, aside from going to museums. You'll probably want to hang out on the north or west sides. As an ESB reader, my guess is that you'll prefer the following neighborhoods: Logan Square, Wicker Park / Ukrainian Village and Andersonville. There are other great places to hang out (West Loop, West Town, Ravenswood/Lincoln Square, pockets of Lakeview, Pilsen), but these are the areas where I spend the most time.

Chicago is on a grid system. Getting a brief understanding of how the streets are set up will help you get oriented. The train system here is the CTA (Chicago Transit Authority), but is also referred to as the "el" (which stands for elevated). The trains are fairly easy to understand. You'll probably only ride on the blueline (Wicker Park/Ukrainian Village and Logan Square), redline (Lakeview, Andersonville) and/or brownline (Lakeview, Lincoln Square) – all of which can be caught downtown.

Things are changing here a ton right now. It seems like a bunch of new stuff has popped up in the past year (and there's a lot of new stuff on the horizon). I'm actually suggesting a few places I haven't been because they've been so hot. Fellow Chicagoans, please chime in!


SLEEP

Stay at Longman & Eagle (in Logan Square) if you can. Otherwise, there's a new hotel in Lakeview that looks nice called Hotel Lincoln. There's another new hotel which I just heard about called Acme Hotel Company (which is downtown, in River North).

(Longman & Eagle)

DO

Art and architecture are some of the best things Chicago has going for it. The new(ish) modern wing at the Art Institute is pretty special and there's an exhibit I want to check out right now about a local architecture firm, Studio Gang. The MCA is fun and managable. If you are really into architecture, the Architecture Foundation's boat tour is popular. You could also take a trip out to Oak Park to see the Frank Lloyd Wright Home & Studio and/or head down to IIT to see the student center by Rem Koolhaus and the other buildings by Mies van der Rohe.

Millennium Park is pretty slick – it's fun to just walk around all the different areas and the big installation art there is pretty great, even if it's a bit touristy.

If you'd rather listen to music, I'd check what's happening on Oh My Rockness. If you don't know anything specific, and just want to hear live music, I'd check out the Empty Bottle – it's my favorite venue. If you want to check out comedy (it IS Chicago)… I'm sorry, I'm not much help. Live comedy kind of scares me. I saw Too Much Light Makes the Baby Go Blind once and really liked it. Or you could check out Second City.

If you are sportier or more outdoorsy, you could try any of the following: kayak the river (fun but kind of gross); bike/walk the lakeshore path; get drunk at Wrigley; hang out in one of many many parks; go to the beach.


EAT/DRINK

Man, there are SO many good places to eat and drink in Chicago. There is no way I could cover everything worth covering. I think people sort of find their niche. Mine centers around beer. There are tons of fancy-pants cocktail bars in Chicago but my husband is a beer blogger so we frequent breweries and beer bars. Here are some of MY top suggestions of places to eat and drink broken down by neighborhood (this list is SO not inclusive)...

Logan Square / Avondale:
Gaslight Coffee Roasters – this place is new and I actually haven't been there during the day (it soft-opened last Saturday) but I went to an after-hours party there Friday and it was pretty slick.
Lula – Probably my favorite restaurant in Chicago, totally classic.
Hot Doug's – A classic Chicago dog is pretty great and you can get it anywhere, but might as well get it here along with an antelope sausage and some duck fat fries.
Kuma's – Great great burgers.
Longman & Eagle – Great drinks but better for drinking AND eating b/c the bar space isn't big.
Revolution Brewing – One of our many many local breweries.

(Hot Doug's courtesy of Todd Markle)

Andersonville / Uptown:
Hopleaf – This is a very popular Belgian bar – classic Belgian and new American beers alongside mussels and some great sandwiches.
Coffee Studio – Great coffee bar (owned by 2 alums of my graduate design program).
Tweet – One of my favorite places for brunch – good vibe and great breakfast cocktails.

Lincoln Square / North Center:
City Provisions – Cleetus (the owner and head chef) is amazing. Go here on Sunday for brunch or to buy food out of deli case or off shelves.
Fountainhead – Great beer bar with excellent roof (food = meh).
Tiny Lounge – Cool little cocktail bar – gets super crowded at night on the weekends; good food.

Downtown:
Intelligentsia – One of the biggest coffee brands in the city, the downtown location is hip (but doesn't have a ton of seating).
XOCO – Rick Bayless's taqueria. Good for lunch if you are downtown.
Pastoral – Great sandwiches or picnic basket-type meals to go. Also great place to pick up wine or foodstuffs to take home with you.
Watershed – One of the only bars downtown that I frequent. Everything here is from around the Great Lakes region. Bluegrass on Thursdays.

(Chicago-style pizza courtesy of Time Out Chicago)

Lakeview / Lincoln Park:
Bowtruss – Another new coffee place. I haven't been to the location but I'm currently drinking my buddy Max's collaboration blend.
Heritage Bicycles – and general store and coffee house…
FishBar – I love this place – I've had so many good experiences here. It's cool and casual and has a great staff.
Pequod's – My husband's favorite pizza in the city.
Gingerman and Sheffield's – If you end up at Wrigley, these are the only bars to go to nearby that aren't frightening. Good beer bars.
Delilah's and Local Option – 2 bars in this preppy area that don't feel like they belong here. Delilah's is a whisky bar, Local Option a beer destination – but both are kind of punk rock (at least in my estimation).

Wicker Park / Ukrainian Village / Bucktown:
Piece – Pizzeria and microbrewery – more of a sports bar but really good pizza.
Big Star and Antique Taco – The former has amazing food but I've had crappy service there; the latter I've never actually been to but heard good things.
Map Room – Classic Chicago beer bar.
Small Bar – Another (smaller) beer bar that I think has been revamped a ton since I was last in (have met the owner a few times).

West Loop / West Side:
Girl and the Goat – one of the most talked about Chicago restaurants (Stephanie Izard won Top Chef). I hate hyped places but this lived up to everything I had heard.
Haymarket – Chicago brewery kind of sports bar(ish) but the beer is good.

(Girl and the Goat by Anna Knott courtesy of Chicago Magazine)

Southside:
Maria's Packaged Goods – Another hip beer bar (in Bridgeport).
Pleasant House Bakery – This awesome savory pie place is near Maria's in Bridgeport.
Simone's – ANOTHER hip beer bar (in Pilsen).


SHOP

Clothes:
Downtown is full of large chain stores. If you are from a tiny tiny town, this may be fabulous for you. The sales tax is HIGH but there's a huge selection. We have all of those cheap-but-trendy stores like Forever 21, Zara, Topshop, H&M, etc. Check out Michigan Avenue and State Street. If you are looking more for fancy name-brand stuff, you'll want to do the Gold Coast area around Oak Street. I think the best area for boutique shopping is Bucktown (Damen between Webster and North, maybe – and then down Milwaukee). Penelope's is my favorite boutique (on Division in Uk Village). Haberdash for great for men (River North).
Akira is a local chain here. Dovetail looks awesome but I haven't been yet. We have a Madewell in the 'burbs and the 2nd BHLDN shop in the US.

Home stores (new + vintage):
Scout, Brimfield, Post 27, Broadway & Edgewater antique malls (right near each other), Orange Moon, Roost, Jayson H&G, Wooly Mammoth (these two new places look good but I haven't been yet: Roadtrip and Caza).

Gift/other:
Foursided, Marguerite Gardens, Hazel, Haymaker, Art Effect, Martyn George...


OTHER RESOURCES

I find the eat.shop guides, now renamed Rather, to be highly reliable.

My friend Jess wrote the Chicago design*sponge guide.

For a laugh before you come, check out #SOYEAHDUH (a Chicago GIF blog)

Image at top: Millennium Park's Crown Fountain via A AS Architecture
______________________________

I know the city guides are sorta taking over the blog. BUT YOU GUYS KEEP ASKING FOR THEM. (p.s. Email me if you want to write up Barcelona or Paris.)

where should a couple of Aussies go in HAWAII?

Dear ESB,

FH and I are getting married in Sept in Sydney - great, no problems there. We weren't planning on having a honeymoon due to work commitments, blah blah.

Now good friends of ours are getting married in Hawaii (Kauai) in March and we thought we might go and make it our honeymoon too. Only problem is that I have no idea about where is good to go in Hawaii! I have tried looking online but I have had bad experiences with booking online... the photos seem to lie a lot.

Do you or your readers have any recommendations? We will be going for about 10 days and will spend 4 days on Kauai (at the Outrigger Waipouli beach) for the wedding - after that we need a plan. Not keen on Waikiki or anywhere too touristy - we are beach bums and want something super chilled out and relaxed. Hawaii looks like an awesome place with beautiful scenery and I don't want to ruin it by ending up somewhere built up, in a giant hotel.

Thanks so much in advance!

*****

I enlisted Heather of One Love Photo to help me with this one. Heather's partner Jon is from Hawaii, so they spend a lot of time (and shoot a lot of weddings!) there.

Here's what Heather had to say:

My advice would be to stay on Kauai the whole time and head North to Hanalei right after the wedding.

A perfect day in Hanalei would be; drive to the pier in Hanalei Bay and rent two paddle boards or kayaks. Go for a paddle up the river from the rental place (get a half day rental). Once you get done with your paddle eat some tacos at Pete's Taco truck in the parking lot (best tacos ever). Eat your tacos on the pier with your feet dangling over the edge. Then head over to the bay for a swim. Then drive up to the end of the road to watch the sunset at Ke'e Beach park. 

Have dinner back in Hanalei at Neide's Salsa & Samba in the back of Hanalei Center. Get the kalua pork chimichanga then walk across the street for some people watching, music and a super stiff Mai Tai at Tahiti Nui.

Accommodations

I would recommend renting a condo through VRBO (vacation rental by owner) or Craigslist for a full week while in Hawaii. You will get the best rate if you do a full week. We have scored some great deals through both websites. The last time we visited Kauai we got a two bedroom, two bath fully furnished condo with kitchen, Lanai and full ocean view in Princeville for $125.00 per night! The key is to book your room as last minute as possible to get the cheapest rates. Princeville is a a golf community on the Northshore. Tons of condos, very developed and a little weird but it has great rates and the island beauty is a short 5-10 minute drive right outside of "condoland."

Kauai Food

Kintaro -- On the east side, in Wailua, right after you cross the river going toward the north shore from the airport on your right. The best sushi I have ever had, hands down. Get a Hanalei Roll and have a sake drop. Gets really busy, so you might want to make a reservation.

Postcards -- In Hanalei, on the left right when you first get into town. It is small and lovely and the food is really good. Always lots of hippies in the kitchen ;)

The Hanalei Gourmet -- Go on fish taco night -- they are the best! The Gourmet also has great drinks and live music.

Tahiti Nui -- This is the most classic, local-style, shady-business bar in Hanalei -- it's awesome. Karaoke, cheap(er) drinks, great people watching.

Best Beaches

Ke'e Beach -- The very end of the road, on the north shore. Great snorkeling. This is also where the Na Pali coast begins. If you like to hike, take the trail to Hanakapiai (a couple of miles.) Amazing views! The trail ends in Kalalau Valley, kind of a gnarly hike but you will get amazing pictures!

Tunnels -- This is before you get to Ke'e. Gets really busy, but if you go down the beach in either direction you can usually find your own spot away from people. Really great snorkeling and diving.

Hanalei Bay -- In Hanalei. Sandy, nice, mellow surf (except in winter) great for kayaking or just swimming/walking, etc.

All time Best!

If you're planning to do anything active, I would rent kayaks or Stand Up Paddle Boards and go down the Wailua River on the East side or the Hanalei River. So beautiful!!!

Hit a Farmers market or two. Make sure that one of them is the Tuesday afternoon market in Waipa (just outside of Hanalei when you are heading to the end of the road). It is the best. Everyone lines up right before it opens at 2pm and then when they open it up everyone rushes the stands to get their goods.

Cocktails at the Princeville Hotel -- swanky and spectacular -- get drinks in the lobby at sunset and feel like a rock star.

Other fun stuff to see....

Art Walk in Hanapepe

Waimea Canyon -- Can't miss this, Grand Canyon Hawaii style, eat lunch after your drive up to the viewpoint not before. Small windy roads!

Glass Beach -- AWESOME if you like beach-combing. Do the canyon and glass beach earlier in the week while staying at the wedding resort (less driving).

Thanks, Heather! NOW WE ALL WANT A MAI TAI.

Images by One Love Photo

What should I be doing in AUSTIN??

Sooooooooo I've been in Austin for almost a week, visiting my MIL, helping H with a shoot, and mostly sitting on my ass. I begged Kat (one of my fave Texans I've never met) to write something that would inspire me to drag H out of the house....

Here's Kat:

Helloooooo ESB-ers! As we all know, Austin pretty much kicks ass. In fact, Ms. ESB is there right now (and for some reason HAS NOT EATEN FRITO PIE YET). As such, she’s asked me to put together a wee lil what-to-do-in-Austin post.

Now, this list is by no means all-inclusive. My husband and I visit a lot because we have family and friends there. We tend to do things on the cheap so that we can spend our dollars on really great, locally-made stuff from incredible artists. We’re also kind of outdoorsy and like to spend a lot of time hiking, walking, or just sitting outside in the shade with a good beer. Austin is perfect for being outside (when the weather isn’t super hot), so I cannot recommend enough that you explore the outdoor activities the city has to offer!


Food:

Torchy’s Tacos, Tacodeli, and Taco Shack – All Austin institutions. Pretty delicious. I prefer Tacodeli, but really, it’s like picking a favorite ice cream. Can’t lose.

Spider House Cafe – A funky neighborhood coffee/tea spot. Kombucha on tap (if you like that stuff. GROSS.) Great atmosphere.

Caffe Medici – Seriously good coffee, and the one on West Lynn is in an adorable neighborhood.

P. Terry’s – Austin’s (much better) version of In-N-Out burger. Their black bean burger is delicious, and their fries are great. We always try to hit it. Several locations around town.

Iron Works – Really good old-school Texas barbeque in downtown Austin. They have a 2-story porch that overlooks the creek.

(Iron Works BBQ via Meat Meister)

El Chilito – An order-at-the-window taco shop that’s pretty tasty.

Amy’s Ice Cream – An amazing Austin ice cream shop (that’s spread all over Texas). Actually, it’s more like frozen custard. Really intensely rich and so, so good. My father-in-law calls all locations near him when it’s time for Peppermint Ice Cream to hit the coolers and stocks up for the year.

Kerbey Lane – Pretty delicious breakfast around the clock. Fun pancakes like lemon poppy seed, etc, that change pretty frequently. My favorite thing to get is the Eggs Francisco: English muffin topped with scrambled egg, tomato, avocado, and queso. Ask for black beans as a side.

Mi Madre’s – Excellent Mexican food. We try and go for breakfast. And don’t worry if it looks crowded or if you have a hard time finding a parking spot – the restaurant has TONS of seating, so send someone in to check if there’s a wait. There usually isn’t.

Thunderbird Coffee – good coffee, great atmosphere.


Stuff to Do:

South Congress – This is typically what we do on any given trip. It’s touristy and popular, but for a reason: it’s Austin in a nutshell. There are great shops, restaurants, and street vendors, and the whole drag is walkable. I recommend starting with breakfast either at Magnolia Cafe (on S. Congress & Johanna) or at Jo’s Hot Coffee & Good Food (the sight of the famous “I Love You” graffiti, on the north end at S. Congress and James). Do it before it gets too hot. You can eat lunch anywhere on the strip – there are tons of food trucks and a few good restaurants worth checking out. They offer everything from cilantro lemonade to Thai food, so I recommend surveying before settling on one place.

6th Street – Hit 6th Street after dark if you’re into bar-hopping. If you go around dinner time, lots of bars have rooftop seating and you can enjoy a nice drink before all the college kids get there. It’s a major spot for college students and bachelorette parties, so be aware that it gets kind of loud and crazy after 10 pm. They close the street down at night for safe(ish) walking conditions.

Hamilton Pool Nature Reserve – If you can spare the 30-minute drive, this is totally worth it. A great swimming hole and perfect for the humid and hot Austin summers.

Barton Springs Pool – Also a great place to swim, but in Austin proper. It’s COLD, so be prepared!

(Barton Springs via The Edwards Aquifer Website)

The Texas Capitol Building – I love touring the capitol building. It’s beautiful, there’s tons of history.

Bob Bollock Texas State History Museum – Again, I’m kind of a nerd about these things, and I love it. The last time we were there, artifacts from the “Belle” (La Salle’s ship) were on display. Really, really awesome.

Tubing on the Guadalupe – There is nothing better than taking a day to drink beer and float on the river when it’s blazing hot outside. It’s one of the post popular things to do in the Texas Hill Country (and for good reason). So if you have an extra day to do it, pack up a cooler (here are the rules about open containers) and head south on I-35 for about 30 minutes to New Braunfels. Now, you can tube on most rivers in the area, but the Comal recently adopted some strict rules about river activities. So tubing the Guadalupe is the way to go. AND DON’T FORGET SUNSCREEN. You will fry otherwise!

Here are the directions (there are a couple of ways to get there): The first is to go south on I-35 and exit for FM 306. This way tends to be packed and slow-going, so if that’s the case, then do this: go south on I-35, take the exit for 306, go straight until you see Hwy 337, and turn right onto Hwy 337. You’ll cross over Hwy 46 once, but when you see it again, turn right on it, then turn right onto FM 2722 and then take another right on FM 2673. It’ll be on your right when you dead-end into FM 306.

Pedernales Falls – Less than a hour away, this state park is really beautiful. A nice break from the city. Great hikes.

Uncommon Objects – Fantastic thrift/junk-type shop on South Congress. I could spend hours in there.

(Uncommon Objects via The Curious Reserve)

By George – Beautiful clothes. Can’t say enough good things about this boutique.

Toy Joy – A really, really cool toy shop stocked floor-to-ceiling with all kinds of neat shit.

Prototype Vintage Design – on South Congress and Milton. Not thrift prices, but really great. Honestly, any vintage shops on South Congress are very well-stocked and not too expensive. I’ve found some amazing stuff on this street.

Hike in Zilker Park – Austin has good parks and is famous for outdoor activities, and this is no exception.


Places I haven’t tried, but are on the list:

Salt Lick (in Driftwood, NOT ROUND ROCK) – One of the most famous barbeque places in the state. Nick is chomping at the bit to try the one in Driftwood after a visit to the mediocre location in Round Rock. I’m vegetarian, but I would totally try their brisket.

Uchiko – Everyone is raving about this Japanese food place, so it must be good. It’s on the list. [Editor's Note: My MIL took us here the day after I arrived. It is NOT cheap -- we did a tasting menu, and I'd rather not know what the final bill came to -- but it was truly an incredible meal.]

(Uchiko)

Contigo – Abby Powell did a little spot about it on her blog, and I’m now VERY interested in eating here.

Yellow Jacket Social Club – I honestly don’t know why we haven’t been here yet. The food (I’ve been told) is fantastic.

Taco Xpress – I’m always on the hunt for a good migas taco, and rumor is, theirs is awesome.

Bows + Arrows – This shop’s stuff has made the rounds on the interwebs and looks really fantastic. Can’t wait to go there. [Update: The proprietress of Bows + Arrows up and moved to Nashville. Her new shop, Arrow and Arrow, is online only. There is a pair of cute stores, JM Dry Goods and Spartan, at 215 South Lamar where B+A used to be. ]

Take Heart – Again: gorgeous stuff.

Schatzelein – Beautiful jewelry from independent designers.

Finch – Sells some fun stuff, including Heath Ceramics.

Strut – Great prices. From what I’ve heard, some really fun things can be found here.

Eastside Café – Have heard so many good things about this place. Definitely worth a shot.

So I hope that’s enough to get you started should you ever be in the area. Austin is always changing and new shops and restaurants are constantly opening. You really can’t go wrong as long as you stay away from chains!

(Photo at top: Daniel Johnston's Austin mural via myspace)

What should we do in Victoria, BC?

(Friendly Victoria Seals by Fishy979)

Hi ESB,

My husband and I used your Portland trip guide (that Joanna wrote) when we went for a weekend in November. It was fabulous. Broder was amazing and we were lucky to get a table in the first batch when it opened on Sunday morning.

Anyway, we are planning to go to Victoria, BC over president's day weekend and were wondering if any locals in might be able to write a post. Obviously it is unlikely that you could post this next week for us since you will be *ahem* snorkeling. But I'm sure lots of Seattle readers (and Vancouver and everywhere else) would be interested!

On a completely different note: Would you consider a boobs-week post about pregnancy and already big(ger) boobs? I'm totally lost. When should I buy a new bra? I'm putting it off because I'll probably go up another couple sizes but I don't know.

Thanks!

*****

When I put the call out on Twitter, Rachel, a library enthusiast/government lackey/west coast adventurer, was the first and only Victorian (Victoriite?) who offered to write a guest post. Let's consider ourselves lucky that she appreciates the finer things, such as coffee coffee coffee and LOCALLY MADE GIN.

Here's Rachel:

Oh Victoria I love thee, let me count the ways. My husband, Dallas, and I moved to Victoria in August 2010 after living in Alberta for many years. I’m originally from the coast and have always wanted to move back to be closer to friends, family, and milder winters. It was easy enough to convince Dallas that Victoria was the place to be given the proximity to his true love (after me, of course) – surfing.

To be honest I didn’t really know that much about the city before moving here, but I am a quick study and have fallen in love with everything Victoria has to offer. There is an vast array of incredible restaurants, cafes, and shops – it’s no wonder that a friend of mine has referred to Victoria as the velvet ditch – once people get here they realize how sweet it is and stay put.

A word on Victoria – if you are a visitor it is most likely that you are staying downtown and/or near the Inner Harbour. If that is the case you should be able to walk to 80% of what is on this list. For the rest, a short cab ride may be in order. There is one exception to the rule, and it’s worth sorting out transport to do – The Butchart Gardens. I was a doubter for the first year of living here…I mean, it’s just a garden, right – for tourists and the elderly? However, it is pretty spectacular in every season.

(Butchart Gardens, Winter)

Coffee:
Try Habit, The Parsonage Café (home to Fernwood Coffee), Discovery, and Street Level Espresso. For tea drinkers out there, do not miss Silk Road Tea on the edge of Chinatown.

Bakeries:
Victoria does not disappoint in this category. Visit Cascadia, Bubby Roses, or Wildfire. For the Gluten-Free people in your life, Origin is a gem – a bit off the beaten path, but so worth it.

Local tip #1: To combine the above, walk across the Johnson Street Bridge (or if you’re visiting from March through October catch a harbour ferry) to Dockside Green and gorge yourself on treats from my favourite bakery, Fol Epi, and a cappuccino at Fantastico next door.

Breakfast:
Mo:Le, The Blue Fox, and Shine Cafe. A new addition, Hudson Jones is also a sure thing – Maple Bacon Sticky Bun, need I say more.

Local tip #2: if you want to avoid waiting in a long line for brunch on the weekend, check out The Superior – a creative menu, and live music as well. They also do dinner and drinks properly too!

Lunch: Hernande’z for the tacos, Foo for Asian street food, and Pig for BBQ. Red Fish, Blue Fish has, hands down, the best fish and chips in the city.

(Red Fish Blue Fish by Karlie85)

Local tip #3: if you are in Victoria from Monday to Friday, lunch at Relish or Devour are amazeballs – some of the best food Victoria has to offer at these 2 spots.
Drinks:

Victoria has a surprising number of beer producers for its size. Get acquainted with pints from Driftwood, Phillips, Hoyne, Lighthouse or Van Island. I like the view at the Flying Otter or Spinnakers and the low key nature of Garrick’s Head.

For cocktails, sit at the bar at Veneto, Clive’s or the Bengal Lounge at the Empress Hotel. My favourite spot for wine is Stage, where the food is also incredible.

Dinner:

If you’re looking for casual, Ferris’ Grill has the best falafel and the chicken penne soup that you will not regret trying (it may sound weird, but just trust me). Rebar is where vegetarians and those who love them gather. [Editor's Note: I ♥ REBAR.] If you want to be charmed beyond belief, visit Skinnytato, a mom-and-pop Polish place. Pizzeria Prima Strada serves the BEST pizza, Neapolitan-style (certified by the VPN).

(Ferris' Grill)

Local tip #4: if you’re at the Cook Street Prima Strada, you will most likely wait for a table as they don’t take reservations. But hey, it’s ok – head across the street to the Beagle Pub to continue your quest to try all the local micro brews. Your cell will ring when your table is ready!

Ulla is a sure thing for a special occasion dinner – beautiful food, drinks, staff, space. I’m also looking forward to my upcoming birthday dinner at Zambri’s, which I’ve been wanting to try since we moved here.

Believe it or not, there is more to do in Victoria than eat. Victoria is also a great place to shop – find something for yourself at Susaion, Still Life, Lark & Sparrow or my personal favourite, Smoking Lily.

Browse for books at Munro’s, jewelry at Violette, buy ESB some of her favourite deodorant at Emporia. New to Yates St is Nest & Cradle – worth checking out for you and your home. Because you’re already at the Atrium building to drink coffee at Habit, stop in at Cook Culture for your kitchen.

Now that you’ve eaten and shopped yourself silly, a long walk is in order. Victoria is notorious for views of its picturesque inner harbour, which you can walk along from downtown all the way to Fisherman’s Wharf where you will see a floating community and feed fish to friendly seals, if that’s your thing (come on…I know it is). Another great walk is found at Ogden Point, where the Breakwater stretches nearly a kilometre into the sea, and then along Dallas Road, where you look out across the strait to Washington’s Olympic Peninsula.

(Fisherman's Wharf by Hummingbird604)

As I mentioned earlier, a visit to The Butchart Gardens is worth it, even if gardens aren’t really your thing (*raises hand*). Before heading to the Gardens, stop at Hilary’s or Choux Choux for a picnic to take with you. If you are driving out that way, why not visit Sea Cider and then Victoria Spirits – two local producers who are making exceptional hard cider and gin that will make you weep.

p.s. Because I gather you are preggers, you should also stop at Hip Baby on lower Johnson, and check out the clothing for littles at Smoking Lily/Milkman's Daughter.

Also: If anyone wants to answer the bra question, feel free to dive in.

the ELOPER'S GUIDE to nyc

Hello Lady,

So, I got engaged to my boy last year and we started the crazy wedding planning journey. Well, didn't that just turn into some kind of monster! It all got crazy, people involved got crazy and it was turning out to not be very much fun. Cut to me saying to the boy in a moment of total fed upedness 'we should just run away and get married in New York' and so WE ARE! Eeeek! Total excitement!

So, I was wondering if I could get a bit of advice from you and your lovely readers. We are Australians and neither of us have never been to New York before....I haven't been to America before. Sooo, we are planning on getting married at City Hall. We are tossing up about getting a photographer to come and photograph the ceremony and then maybe take some photos after......

Also, what to do once we're married? We don't know......we're thinking of somewhere nice to go and eat, drink and just be giddy about the fact we just got married. Suggestions?

Would totally appreciate any advice you may have.....we would love the day to just be rad!

*****

I brought in a expert for you.

Matthew Downes (who's a friend of my lady Jamie) is a Brooklyn chef inspired by the seasons, and he just put up a brand spankin gorgeous new blog over here.

Here are Matt's recommendations:

Planning on eloping in New York City? Well, if all that wedding planning (or non-wedding planning) has got you hungry, you’ve come to the right spot. There is no dearth of restaurants in this great city, but here’s a helpful guide to put the finishing touch on that magical day.

Located in an eighteenth century carriage house in the West Village, One If By Land, Two If By Sea is remarkably romantic, with fireside dining and live piano music. The food, while not the most spectacular gustatory event in the city, is modern enough to delight the senses. But, it is the old-world atmosphere, the feeling of being transported to another time, even another place, that whisks you away and may just be the topper to your wedding day.

Blue Hill is known for their simple, yet elegant, farm-focused food, and their location near Washington Square Park is fitting for a wedding day feast that will still leave you light enough for some late night frolicking. The dining room is spacious enough, by Manhattan standards, that won’t leave you competing to hear your new spouse’s voice, and the kitchen is very accommodating, which makes for the perfect spot for any vegetarians, vegans or anyone with food allergies.

(Blue Hill at Stone Barns)

For a truly spectacular dinner, head to Blue Hill at Stone Barns, about an hour north of Manhattan by train/cab. Located on a former Rockefeller estate, Stone Barns is an absolute delight if you really want to spoil yourself. I recommend making an early reservation (5:30 or 6 pm) and arriving around 3 pm. Walk around the farm, visit the greenhouse, get lost in the woods, say hello to the pigs. Once the dining room doors open, enjoy a cocktail on the terrace before the kitchen takes you on a culinary tour that is influenced by that day’s harvest. And after dinner, retire to the terrace for tea service. They’ll roll out a cart of potted herbs for you to choose, mix and match.

For the vegetarians and vegans out there looking for a meal befitting of your wedding day, the only true vegetarian restaurant I would recommend is Kajitsu, located in the East Village. Old school Shojin principles meet modern techniques to create a memorable dinner. The atmosphere, while not traditionally romantic, is quiet and Zen-like. Try heading to The Bourgeois Pig for a glass of wine before or after dinner…or both! Located only a couple blocks from Kajitsu, the dark burgundy décor and candlelight will compensate for any overly romantic atmosphere that Kajitsu may lack.

Want to kick it in Brooklyn after a trip to City Hall? Once you tie the knot, take a water taxi to Fulton Ferry landing in DUMBO and dine at The River Café. Watch the sun set over the East River and the Manhattan skyline while dining at one of New York’s storied restaurants. The food is good, the view is even better!

(Andrew Field + Rockaway Taco by The Selby)

And finally, for those of you that just want to catch your first waves as newlyweds, head to Rockaway Beach. Take in some surfing, and when you’ve worked up an appetite, hit up Rockaway Taco. Open seasonally from May to October, they serve up some of the best tacos in the city, only blocks from the beach. Be warned, with lines down the block, and limited seating, you may be parking your wedding dress curbside.

What should Pasty Minnesotans do in LA? (WEST SIDE EDITION: Part 3)

This is it. Le Grand Finale.

THE BEACH.

And the next time a reader emails me to ask, "What should I do while I'm in L--" I'll have five (count em, FIVE) places to point her.

Here's Paige on Santa Monica + Venice, those neighborhoods you're actually thinking of when you think of capital-L capital-A:

In my opinion, the west side doesn't go east of the 405, but I have to cover the neighborhoods slighted in the previous posts. I'm breaking it down by location and categories for easy reference in case those Minnesotans can only hit up a few neighborhoods. All of these recs have been tried and loved by me and mine. 

Santa Monica

Eat.

Rustic Canyon for food and wine for foodies and winos.

The Original Father's Office for the blue cheese burger and draft beers.

Huckleberry for the excellent counter service salads, sandwiches, and baked goods.

Umami for the juiciest hamburger you will ever eat. (multiple locations in the city)

Bay Cities Italian Deli & Bakery - get The Godmother.

Tacos Por Favor that takes out Yuca's on the east side. 

Via Veneto for great Italian and romantic quaintness. 

Lares for tasty, sloppy Mexican food with a mariachi band.

Shutters for breakfast for WASPy Nantucket design and a view of the ocean. 

Santa Monica Seafood for oysters and oogling the fresh fish. 

Head up the PCH to Reel Inn for fresh fish cooked anyway you like it. 

Shop. 

Fred Segal. Look it up. 

Hennessy and Ingalls for art, architecture, and design books.

Arcana for more rare of the same. 

The 3rd Street Promenade for people watching and a smorgasbord of stores, all outdoors.

Peek for cute, beachy kids clothes. 

Only Hearts for sexy but comfortable lingerie.

Morgane Le Fay for fashionable dresses. [Editor's Note: And FABULOUS WEDDING DRESSES. Hello.]

Planet Blue for the likes of hip casual wear.

(Morgane Le Fay)

Do.

Beach.

Harvelle's for dive bar and live music.

Angel's Piano Bar and Supper Club for live music and good happy hour.

Farmer's Market on Wednesday, Saturday, and Sunday. Every celebrity chef in town and best produce around.

Rent bikes at Ocean Park and cruise the boardwalk from SM pier to Venice pier. 

Brian Kest power yoga for a true SM workout, guru style. And it's by donation.

Venice

Eat.

Gjelina for wood fire oven pizza, amazing duck confit, great atmosphere, hipster waiters. 

Shima for sushi. This is a hidden gem with no sign. Modern interior, beautiful fish.  

Picollo for a romantic, alley-way dive. outstanding northern Italian

Jin Patisserie for macaroons, chocolate and fine tea cake. 

The Tasting Kitchen for specialty cocktails and gourmet Americana soul food.

Abbott's Pizza company - get the salad pizza.

La Cabana for amazing homemade tortillas, open till 3am. 

Mao's for their salt and pepper seafood. Great chinese long beans too. 

3 Square for brunch, get the fried avocado and pretzel rolls.

Abbott's Habit or Intelligentsia for coffee.

(Abbot's Salad Pizza)

Shop.

Basically, hit up Abbott Kinney.

Tortoise for amazing, curated, Japanese scultpures and tchotchkes.

Urbanic for cute paper goods.

Mollusk for surf design from your board to your britches. 

Undrest for jewelry, panties, and swimsuits.

El Vino for a wine tasting and good, cheap european wines.

A + R for contemporary objets.

Surfing Cowboys for California finds.

The Stronghold for custom made jeans and suspenders.

Linus Bike for just that.

Waraku for imported sneakers.

Gotta Have It Vintage for retro dresses.

Steven Alan for classic Americana.

Do

Speakeasy at the top of The Stronghold. 

Pick up cheap sunglasses, visit the skate park, and people watch at the boardwalk.

Visit LA Louvre and L&M Arts, both great galleries.

Poetry reading at Beyond Baroque.

Go surfing.

Walk the canals. 

Eat at some food truck that will be parked on Abbott Kinney.

(Venice Skatepark via The Landless Farmer)

Be sure to browse Part 1 + Part 2 of Paige's West Side guide.

Top Photo by Inez Van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin for Vogue Paris August 2011

What should Pasty Minnesotans do in LA? (WEST SIDE EDITION: Part 1)

I thought Paige Appel was rad before she made me this offer....

I may be stepping over the (east side) line here, but when I read What should Pasty Minnesotans do in LA?, I noticed an absence of cooler side locations. (cooler meaning ocean breeze, don't get all up in arms) so I have taken it upon myself to educate all you east siders on the jaunts west of la brea.

But HOLY SHITBALLS do I think she's rad now.

I also think Paige's talents may be underutilized. I mean, sure, Bash, Please and The Cream are all that and more. But shouldn't we be lighting a fire under her ass to do a little more blogging?

Note: I was all ready to post THE WHOLE SHEBANG when blogger broke down in tears, so I've decided to break it into three parts. (I'll thank myself later when I'm driving around the west side scrolling through my own blog on my phone.)

Also, I fear we're too late to be helpful to the actual Pasty Minnesotans at this point, so "Pasty Minnesotan" will stand in for Everyman.

Without further ado, here's Paige on West Hollywood + Beverly Hills:

In my opinion, the west side doesn't go east of the 405, but I have to cover the neighborhoods slighted in the previous posts. I'm breaking it down by location and categories for easy reference in case those Minnesotans can only hit up a few neighborhoods. All of these recs have been tried and loved by me and mine. 

West Hollywood (La Brea to Doheny)

Eat. 

Repeat: Animal. Oxtail Poutine and done. BEST RESTAURANT IN TOWN. 

Comme Ca. Handcrafted cocktails (get the Ramos Gin Fizz at brunch), French bistro fare executed properly, and talk to the affineur (aka the cheese guy).

Tower Bar. Get a cozy booth with a view and order the burger. You will probably see some old Hollywood people having 3 hour dinners kissing each other's ass.

Tinga Buena. Short rib tacos and Arroz con crema. Agua fresca. Dirty Horchata. 

Dan Tana's. Old school italian, great steak, likely to see a few washed up Playboy bunnies. 

Angelini Osteria. Best Italian in the city. Sorry Mozza. 

O! Burger. Fast food made organically and deliciously. Best crinkle fries and veggie burger I've ever had with no hormones and yucky stuff. 

The Bazaar at SLS for cotton candy foie gras comedy that tastes really fucking good. (ex employees from El Bulli)

Roger Room for drinks.

(The Bazaar's Cotton Candy Fois Gras via Wine Stained Cloth)

Others to mention (all exceptional) Lucques, BLD, Terroni, Eva, El Carmen, Eveleigh, Loteria at the Farmer's Market, Golden State. Joan's on 3rd for ham and butter on baguette with cheese and sweets to go. Hugo's for "california" food, meaning vegetarian, vegan and flax seed friendly folk.

TIP: don't let the endless lines at TOAST fool you. OVERRATED, UNDERWHELMING.

Shop.
OK. Quirky, beautiful, vintage and modern design. [Editor's Note: We did our wedding registry here -- can't recommend them highly enough.]

Douglas Fir for men's clothes and shoes. Classic masculine. Also, stop into Esquivel behind Douglas Fir if you have a hankering to drop a mint on a fine pair of handmade shoes.

Noodle Stories. Minimalist high fashion for the ladies.

Opening Ceremony (do I need to say anything?)

Le Labo for the nicest (and hippest) smelling perfume on the planet.

Roseark for the diamond encrusted arrowhead necklace that everyone needs. Or a pair of moccasins.

Plastica for Danish design and cute baby onesies.

Table Art for just that. 

Heath Ceramics for classic earthen and home goods.

Ahead Stereo for the audiophile. 

Du Vin for winos.

Book Soup for bibliophiles.

American Rag for vintage and good shoes.

(Esquivel Shoes)

Do.
Repeat - LACMA

Art galleries - Regen Projects, ACME, Marc Foxx. (and then head south on La Cienega to Culver City to hit up Blum & Poe, Susanne Vielmetter, Cherry & Martin, David Kordansky, Honor Fraser among others on the row)

People watch at Chateau Marmont lobby. 

Visit the MAK center to tour the Schindler House.

Get beaten by eucalyptus branches (platza) at under the radar Russian spa Voda.

See an indie move that is never going to come to Minnesota at Laemmle Theatre.

See an old, new, or camp (awesome) movie at revival house New Beverly Cinema.

See an avant garde, or sometimes ironic film at The Cinefamily at the Silent Movie Theatre.

Beverly Hills 
(You may cringe when hearing the 90210 moniker, but there are a few redeeming spots worth a see.)

Eat.

The Fountain Coffee Room for a basement breakfast in the notorious Beverly Hills Hotel.

Bouchon by the one and only Thomas Keller. 

Matsuhisa for Nobu's original sushi restaurant.

Red Medicine for awesome Vietnamese.

Papa Jake's for cheap and good hoagies.

Graffeo for coffee.

Mulberry Street for new york style pizza.

Shop.
Unless you love high-end chains via Rodeo (which I admittedly get sucked into Prada, Margiela and Miu Miu), don't bother.

(Coldwater Canyon Park via Travelin' Local)

Do.
People watch with cocktails on the patio at the Beverly Wilshire.
Picnic in Coldwater Canyon park next to the wading stream under the big oak trees. 

Drive up Coldwater Canyon to Mulholland and hike Franklin Canyon or visit TreePeople. 

Visit the Museum of Television and Radio. 

Museum of Tolerance for a real upper. weeeeeee.

Stay tuned for Parts 2 + 3.

Top Photo by Inez Van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin for Vogue Paris August 2011 via I KNOW WHAT YOU WORE LAST SEASON