Showing posts with label restaurants. Show all posts
Showing posts with label restaurants. Show all posts
Thursday, February 7, 2013
Seeking: LA restaurant to get married in
Dear ESB:
We've been engaged for 10 months. During that time my fiance has lost his job, relocated to LA for work, I quit my job, packed up our crap and moved myself and our two cats from Chicago to LA to join him and now I'm studying for the bar exam.
I'm ready to just marry the guy, but with his lay-off earlier this year and my "studying housewife" status, I can't stomach the idea of spending a lot on a wedding.
From my research, LA weddings are $$$. I'd like to forgo the traditional ceremony/cocktail hour/reception/first dance/dj/bouquet toss/etc. and instead have a small wedding at an LA restaurant with some DANK food and then whoever wants can hit the town after dinner. My guest count can be limited to 30 people [if necessary], but I really want to keep it under $10,000.
Any suggestions for restaurants in the LA area?
I am eternally grateful!
*****
I'm throwing this one out to you guys…. I have not a clue.
p.s. wtf is DANK food? sounds nasty.
Some Pig by Donna McKenzie on etsy
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Seeking: LA restaurant to get married in
Wednesday, October 10, 2012
What should a couple of twentysomethings do in MONTREAL?
Dear ESB,
So I hesitated sending this... after all you are a wedding advice blog and I have no business reading you everyday (read: not engaged). But everyone else is getting travel suggestions and I haven't had time to research my upcoming trip to Montreal with my brother since these pesky boards are occupying my time and we leave as soon as I put down my number 2 pencil.
Have any great can't miss places/food/activities for two mid-twentysomethings exploring Montreal for 3 days?
*****
I immediately emailed Anna (former wedding blogger, current PROFESSOR!), the coolest and only Montrealer I know.
She typed this up for you while riding the bus:
So here's the deal with Montreal: if you ask a local to tell you what "to do" while you're here, you will inevitably get a long list of places to eat. That is our conception of "to do" here. Following in that grand tradition, let me get the non-food-related items out of the way:
1) Walk to the top of the "mountain." The "mountain" in the middle of the city that serves as our namesake is actually pretty puny, so you can stroll up one of the winding and not very steep trails (ideally starting from the Parc Avenue side of it) in about an hour. At the top, there is a big chalet with a lookout that gives you a great view of the city. The mountain is also nice for picnicking, and jogging and stuff, if you're one of those people. (On Sundays there's also this spontaneous drumming shindig at the base of the mountain on Parc called the Tamtams that inevitably gets recommended to out-of-towners: proceed with caution. This is only for people with a high tolerance for the hemp-clad.)
2) Walk around the city's Old Port. It's pretty. In recent years it has been transformed into somewhat of an upscale hangout destination, so it is replete with douchey cocktail bars and sometimes quite cute boutiques.
3) Hip neighbourhoods to wander around in (notice my constant use of the word "wander"? Basically, what there is to do in Montreal, other than eat, is WALK. The two have a wonderfully symbiotic relationship) include: the Plateau (formerly hip now just about fully gentrified), the Mile End (fully gentrified but somehow miraculously still hip), and Villeray (the newest destination for the city's young and haircutted). These neighbourhoods will generally be great places to find cute boutiques, cafes, bars, etc. If you like art books and comic books, I will highly recommend Drawn and Quarterly (the infamous indie comic publisher's) shop on Bernard Street in the Mile End.
(Drawn and Quarterly via The Montréal Buzz)
It is a block away from the bagels you have to eat, which I'll get to in a bit. In terms of neighbourhoods, downtown Montreal is pretty generic and not worthy eating, shopping or hanging in much, although Simon's is a mostly-clothing-oriented department store downtown that is good for getting some inexpensive and on-trend schmatas.
5) If you get tired of walking, our bus and metro system are great, and people who are not afraid of city cycling (I cannot claim to be one of them) love our bike-sharing system, Bixi, for getting around.
Ok, now let's talk about food.
Iconic Montreal food places, where you MUST eat (special dispensation given on some of these if you're a vegetarian):
St-Viateur Bagel: The city's most famous bagel spot and the best bagels in the world (yes, New Yorkers, I just said that.) Open 24 hours, always fresh, amazing. Buy one fresh from the wood-burning oven and you don't need any cream cheese or anything to eat it with; it will be hot and doughy and delicious all on its own.
Schwartz's: The city's famous smoked meat place, it is tiny and packed and really no frills but it is a landmark. Order a semi-lean smoked meat sandwich with a pickle (sour or half-sour) and a black cherry soda. Listen to me on this one. Roll home.
(Schwartz's smoked meat sandwich via Wikipedia)
There is ALWAYS a line up outside this place but it moves fast and is worth it. Go during off peak hours (for a late lunch, for example) and you won't have to wait as long. Your only excuse for skipping this place is if you're a vegetarian. I was a vegetarian for fifteen years and the first time I ate one of these sandwiches I immediately regretted all of them.
Au Pied de Cochon: If you have one splurge meal, do it here. And if you decide to do that, call and make a reservation IMMEDIATELY; this place books up fast! This is probably Montreal's most famous restaurant right now, and reinvents traditional Québécois cuisine in a funky, slightly upscale context. It is in line with the general trend of upscale comfort food, but it is so, so much more, and really uniquely Montreal. SHARE YOUR DISHES (the portions are huge, and so splitting is really the way to do). My favourite dishes are the foie gras balls (they're this teeny amuse-bouche that you MUST try, as I have never seen another place prepare foie gras this way), the duck carpaccio (another starter that I feel is overlooked!), and the duck in a can (duck compressed in a can in a traditional French method with foie gras, cabbage and other goodies; literally the best duck I have ever had).
(Duck in a can! from Au Pied de Cochon via urbanspoon)
But everything is amazing; the pig's foot which is the restaurant's namesake is also an iconic dish. This place is the opposite of vegetarian-friendly and you should probably pop a Zantac preemptively if you want to feel ok afterwards. (I always tell couples heading there on a date that the key is to have sex BEFORE dinner. It is impossible to get any kind of laid afterwards.)
Poutine: You should try some. The most well-known place in the city for this is La Banquise, which is open 24 hours, and thus a great place to hobnob with drunk students. I think the poutine at Frite Alors! or Poutineville (both local chains) is better. But really you can get it anywhere. [Editor's Note: You really do need to try poutine. But you know that, right?]
Jean-Talon Market: This is my favourite of Montreal's city markets. It is probably quieting as the weather cools down, but it's still a beautiful place to gawk at gorgeous produce, and sample some of Montreal and Quebec's incredible charcuterie and cheese. (Seriously, try our local cheeses. We don't pasteurize shit here. It's awesome.) Wander around and get lunch there.
If you're still hungry, you SHOULD TRY:
French food: Predictably, Montreal has a tonne of really good French food. I actually really recommend the restaurant where we got married, Au Petit Extra. It is classic French bistro style and very affordable for the quality of the food (pretty midrange pricewise). Montreal also has a lot of good BYOB restaurants, many of them French, which also helps with cost. Le P'tit Plateau is one of these; it is pricy (even with the BYOB) but really delicious. Les Trois Petits Bouchons is a wine bar/bistro that is also awesome for a splurge. I would get a reservation for all three of these places.
Portuguese: Montreal is the land of Portuguese roast chicken. I love Jano on Saint-Laurent, but there are lots of good places.
Sandwiches: Santropol is a Montreal institution, it is hippie-ish and has weird sandwiches with lots of cheese in them. It has a nice garden in the summer and I totally recommend it. Service is slow, but it is much beloved by anyone who has ever been young and crunchy in this city.
Vegan food (it only seemed fair after all the meat talk): Aux Vivres is a fucking awesome Montreal vegan food institution. It used to be run by sketchy hippies; my husband always tells the story of eating there back in the day, and peering into the kitchen only to see a dude stirring a pot of soup with a single dreadlock hanging down into it. (I KNOW). The good news is it's a very nice, seemingly hygienic place now, and the Mekong sandwich (on chapati!) is my favourite thing there. And the creamsicle smoothie. But my friends and I regularly come to blows re: what their best menu item is, because they're all pretty delicious, which is more than you can usually say for a place like that.
French pastries: I am partial to a little hole in the wall called Fous Desserts (who also happened to be the folks who did our wedding cake), but there's also a really great place called Patisserie Rhubarbe around the corner from them that is also excellent, as well as Les Copains D'Abord. On the not-just-French-bakery front, there is also a relatively new little place near my house that I am totally in love with – it's called De Farine et de L'Eau Fraiche and is just the cutest bakery/cafe in the world with awesome cookies and stuff.
(Ice cream sandwiches from Fous Desserts via Montreal Best Food Ever)
Bars: Ok I am going to suck at recommending bars, since I only really ever go to brewpubs anymore (the side effect of being married to a brewer). If you like brewpubs, then you must hit up Dieu Du Ciel (by far the best brewpub in town) and Cheval Blanc (my favourite bar all around, for quality of beer, atmosphere, music, etc. It is cool without being intimidating and a chill place to hang for a while. I also love it because it's within stumbling distance of my house, which is not super helpful for you). If you prefer dive bars, I am partial to the Copacabana on St-Laurent, and if you want "cool" bars, then there are a number in the Mile End and Villeray that will probably satisfy you and that I know nothing about.
Brunch: Montreal is hardcore into brunch. Reservoir (also a brewpub, but their brunch is much better than their beer) has my favourite, but it's pretty heavy, so only do it if you're up for it. Also gets crowded. Around the corner from there is Laika, which also has a great brunch that is a bit more traditional but still very creative. Lawrence is reputed to have the best brunch in town, but I have yet to try it and find it a bit pricy; that said, everyone else raves.
If you are hanging out in the old port, you will likely end up surrounded by tourist traps for lunch. Check out Olive and Gourmando, they have excellent sandwiches and other lunch foods and baked goods.
If you want another food splurge, the other very talked about elevated-rustic-food restaurant in town is Joe Beef. It is like the English-speaking cousin to Au Pied de Cochon. I have never been there, but people love it.
Here's the thing though: Montreal has become a fancy food city in recent years, with the rise of foodie culture and all that, but this is fundamentally a city of immigrants and therefore immigrant hole in the wall restos. That is what I love about food in this city – some of my favourite places are dirt cheap little mom and pop hole in the walls, and they are what makes this a great food city. So if there is a specific cuisine you love or are looking for, feel free to comment and ask for recs. We have a lot of great, teeny tiny little places here.
Also, I assume that you've already booked a place to stay, but if you haven't, or if anyone else who is planning on visiting here needs recommendations: several friends have stayed at this place in my 'hood (which is extremely central) called Victorian Heritage B&B and they've loved it. PLUS IT HAS A SECRET PASSAGEWAY!!! I am not joking! If boutique hotels are more your thing, there are a tonne of those too, but they won't have SECRET PASSAGEWAYS!!!
Man, this is already long enough. I could go on. I hope the recommendations help, and enjoy the best city in the world. (We can be kind of an arrogant bunch.)
Photo at top by Photography and More
______________________________
p.s. You guys, I have so many requests for city guides: Barcelona, Paris, London, São Paulo, Bermuda, Buenos Aires. Vegas. Email me if you wanna write one.
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What should a couple of twentysomethings do in MONTREAL?
Friday, September 21, 2012
What should our Wisconsin wedding party do/eat in Brooklyn?
Hi ESB-
I'm a grad student in Virginia planning a courthouse wedding with my partner in Brooklyn this December with our families shipping in from Wisconsin. We feel very strongly about getting married in a state that allows all of our friends to be married, which has caused some family grief over travel and location, but we simply can't care about all of that BS. Our values, our wedding, and the fact that they support our relationship outweighs their frustrations with how we are actually signing the documents.
Here's the thing: I've only been to Brooklyn once, at least four years ago, and my partner has never been there. We are using you and my sister (grad student at Columbia and former Brooklyn resident) as our sources of trustworthy recommendations. The only things set in stone are a courthouse wedding at the Brooklyn Courthouse in the early afternoon and rooms reserved at the NU Hotel. Oh yeah, and Love & Brain will be doing our videography! We would like to keep activities in the relatively small vicinity of Downtown Brooklyn due to unpredictable and cold December weather. Also, moving a group of about 10-12 adults across the city (when only one is a Big City person) sounds stressful.
My problem is this: our families present a bit of a culture clash. Mine: urban, architects and musicians. His: rural, mechanics. We have 6 adult siblings between us, and their interests fall all over the map. The two of us are urban and veer toward trendy. Again, our wedding, our rules, but seeing as we have already asked our families to come all of the way out to NY we would like to find an activity for a December afternoon and a nice restaurant where we can treat these 10 adults (and possibly three of our nieces) to a fun experience after the ceremony.
I am looking for your help in recommending the following things:
An activity within a smart distance from the courthouse or NU Hotel for the afternoon of 12.12.12 that will be neutral enough to be enjoyable for most of our group.
A restaurant for the evening of 12.12.12 that is affordable enough (under $600 for all of us), family friendly, but also nice enough to celebrate our marriage.
Is this even possible?
*****
I brought back my expert.
Matthew Downes is currently in Wyoming, preparing a 12-course Austrian-style dinner for 18, but he was kind enough to write up a few restaurant recommends while sitting on the plane:
I can’t think of a more robust location for dining than Brooklyn. There tends to be an overarching theme of good, wholesome, seasonal food in this borough, but it certainly comes with plenty of variety. Given the size of Brooklyn, you could traipse near and far for great eats, but Smith and Court Streets in Cobble Hill and Carroll Gardens provide enough choices for those staying off Atlantic Ave. Dining anywhere in New York always adds up, but if you can stay away from the more expensive cocktails (though I’m not sure you should!), you should be able to fit the food within your budget.
Char No. 4: I think this is the perfect spot to bring a crowd from a varied background. It’s hip enough for the urbanites, but not pretentious in the least. The food has a southern accent, but this is no BBQ joint. I highly (highly) recommend the pork nuggets as a little tasting tease. Think chicken nuggets, but oh so much better! Other notables include the house cured lamb pastrami and the hangar steak. It’s definitely meat heavy, but there are plenty of vegetables to go around and a risotto in case there are any vegetarians among the bunch. It is a whiskey bar and they have a huge selection of bourbons and ryes. For the best Bloody Mary ever! Chipotle and Bourbon marry perfectly for this drink enjoyed any time of day.
(Char No. 4 by Noah Sheldon via New York Magazine)
Seersucker: Another Southern inspired restaurant, Seersucker is a great neighborhood joint. The décor is soft and simple and very inviting. You’ll find favorites like biscuits, fried chicken and collard greens with potlikker, along with delightful creations combining Southern soul and local produce and meats. Though this dish won’t be around in December, the Upstate Duck Breast, paired with sweet corn, beets and burnt sorghum, is a great example of a Southern chef cooking in Brooklyn.
Buttermilk Channel: Moving from Smith Street to Court Street, you’ll find some great options for a wedding meal at Buttermilk Channel. Like many of Brooklyn’s restaurants, Buttermilk Channel is just a great neighborhood restaurant serving up quality seasonal food. While the South has moved further north with culinary influences on many menus, including Buttermilk Channel’s (Fried Chicken and Cheddar Waffle anyone?), it’s the attention to seasonal produce that I find most appealing here. The clean approach to using amazing local products is evident in the Mediterranean inspired Warm Lamb and Romaine Salad. They also have a full vegetarian menu making it the most vegetable friendly of the group.
(Chicken and Waffles from Buttermilk Channel)
Prime Meats: Another Court Street favorite, there is nothing Southern American about Prime Meats. A great décor with plenty of dark wood and leather, this Bavarian style menu offers up plenty of meat, which might be what the doctor orders if a chilly wind blows through in December. The rustic menu isn’t fussy, just delicious, with great little spins on ingredients, such as pretzel dumplings. The wursts and schnitzel are great, as well as the spätzles. Prime Meats is definitely the most expensive of the four and can fill up fast, so definitely inquire as to what they can offer.
Finally, just a few more suggestions in the neighborhood. For a great cocktail, perhaps after dinner, hit up The JakeWalk. For something more divey and arguably the best jukebox in the city, I recommend Boat Bar on Smith St. And one more brunch suggestion, in case you need to cure the wedding hangover, is Mile End. They serve up scrumptious Montreal-style Jewish deli food. A step above Katz’s Deli, in my opinion.
(Karlsbad Old Fashioned from The Jake Walk)
Please Note: I let Matthew off the hook on the activity front (that is if COCKTAILS don't count as an activity), so please have at it in the comments.
Image at top: Trent Bailey via Brooklyn Bride
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Wednesday, September 12, 2012
What should a couple of Angelenos do in MIAMI?
Hey ESB,
I know this is last minute, but I thought you and my fellows readers might have some tips on places to see/do/eat in Miami. I am taking my husband there for his 30th birthday next week, and neither of us have ever been there.
Why, you ask, did we decided to pick Miami for our trip? Well, we're both really curious what it's like, love cuban food, and imagine it's somewhat like LA in that it has lots of hidden neighborhoods worth exploring but with warmer beaches. Other than rollerblading, what do cool people do in Miami?
We're not into night clubs, but I am looking forward to going out for some fancy cocktails at the Delano or somewhere swank (he's a teetotaler, but loves a good club soda). We love food. We love living seeing cities from different angles. I love gardens. He loves pinball. Oh, and he loves Miami Vice.
Our home-base will be this awesome airbnb rental in North Miami.
So, I'm looking for suggestions for a great coffee place (like Intelligentsia or Handsome or Cafe de Leche), a delicious birthday dinner, and other secrets I might not otherwise find on yelp. (Is it just me, or is yelp the least helpful thing these days?)
Thanks!
*****
I put out a tweet, and the universe gave us Caro. This lady grew up in Miami, went to college outside of LA and decided to return to her hometown, where she spends her free time eating, tweeting and drinking gin. She is awesome.
Here are Caro's recommends (and a few non-recommends) for Miami:
First things first: Miami, like Los Angeles, has awful terrible public transportation. If you're feeling adventurous you could venture onto a bus, but you might get shanked, aggressively cat-called and offered questionably sourced narcotics all from the same person. Or at least this is what I have been told; no self-respecting native would be caught dead on a bus. One of my friends just got punched IN THE FACE by a stranger on the train last week. He dislocated his jaw. This is a true story. This is not a joke. Legit, punched.
Coral Gables and Downtown/Brickell/Design District have some free “trolleys” (read: glorified bus) that are more bourgeoisie-approved, clean and probably safer since they don’t run through questionable parts of the city like the metro does. (Think: park your car once and use the trolley to get around the general area.)
I would recommend renting a car. Car2Go just launched as a more eco-friendly Smart-car sharing alternative you could look into, your rental is right on the edge of their “home area” and it looks like you might only have to walk a few blocks to get to a car.
Once you have a car, you’re going to want to stock up on some snacks for your stay, head to the nearest Publix and hit up the bakery for some croquetas de jamon, pastelitos de guava y queso and some chocolate chip cookies because they are fucking amazing. You might also want to pick up some Limon Pepino (Lime-Cucumber) Gatorade, because I’m pretty sure it’s regional and it is delicious! Side note: unlike California, supermarkets don't sell liquor here – only beer and wine – so if you want to buy your own booze you'll have to search for a separate liquor store. I know; it sucks.
As you suspected, Miami has a bunch of little neighborhoods with their own personalities, so I've organized this list by geographical area.
Coral Gables ("The Gables")
Eat: Eating House – some of the most creative, fattening, delicious food in Miami served by the nicest people in town. Come for a casual weeknight meal or the highest-calorie Sunday brunch (1-5PM) of your life (Cap'n Crunch Pancakes covered in condensed milk. Carbonara Eggs Benedict etc etc), either way don't miss the tomato salad (served with nitro-blasted coconut milk, micro herbs and edible flowers for extra fanciness).
Their menu changes daily, but mainstays and crowd favorites are the Pasta Carbonara, Chicken and Waffles and Charred Corn. (Pro-tip: for instant street cred with the staff, be sure to order a Carpano on the rocks. It's sweet vermouth and it's delicious.)
Do: Walk around Miracle Mile. Plenty of cute shops and a great Argentinean bakery for empanadas and dulce de leche filled pastries.
The Biltmore Hotel is dripping with old school charm. Everything they do there is top-notch: food, cocktails, service. The pool at the Biltmore is one of the most unique in Miami, and being off the beach never gets that packed. Splurging for a private cabana will get you the 5-star treatment without spending 5-figures. Cabanas start at $89 a day.
More: Fairchild Tropical Garden (for lots of greenery and exotic flora), Matheson Hammock (waterfront park with boat access and a great romantic seafood restaurant, Red Fish Grill)
Coconut Grove ("The Grove")
Brunch: Green Street serves brunch every day until at least 2 PM, and offers a perfect cure to that Tuesday morning hangover.
Drink: Grab some Icees from A.C.'s in Kennedy Park and enjoy your brain freezes at the waterfront.
See: Burn Notice, set in the old Coconut Grove Convention Center
Calle Ocho/Little Havana
Eat: Versailles – Versailles is the epicenter of Cuban culture in Miami. When the Heat win the playoffs or Castro finally kicks the bucket (or when we pretend he does), Versailles is the place to go with your cazuelas (Cuban for pots and pans) and make as much noise as possible. Other than the culture, the draw here is the food. Beyonce and Jay-Z make Versailles their first stop when visiting town, completely shutting down the back room of the restaurant, but hey, sometimes you just need some moros and platanitos in your life. Anything with pork will be good. For a snack, head to their bakery and pick up some pastelitos and coffee.
Cuban coffee is served in three iterations: Café con leche (whole milk lightly stained with espresso), Cortadito (equal parts milk and espresso. Served in a 5 oz cup) or Colada (Sugar stained with espresso, served in 1oz shots. Approach with caution. It’s served in small quantities for a reason. It is jet fuel. It will get you wired. I don’t care how much you think you’re intolerant to caffeine. This is a different beast, trust me.) You can find it all over the city these days, but dozens of little “cafesito” windows line Calle Ocho (8th street) and will provide an authentic experience.
Azucar – Local ice cream shop with some rad flavors, including: Café con Leche, Platano Maduro (sweet plantain), Elvis (peanut butter and banana) and Balsamic Strawberry.
Also recommended: Catharsis, LaCasita
See: Maximo Gomez Domino Park
South Beach
Delano is spot on for drinks with a classic South Beach glamour feel. They have a few bars at the hotel: Rose Bar in the lobby, FDR in the basement and a bar out by the pool. I recommend mojitos at the Rose Bar (some of the best in town) or craft cocktails downstairs. Sister hotel Mondrian sits on the opposite side of the island and serves 16 different kinds of caipirinhas. Their west-facing location makes them a perfect spot for watching the sun set over the Miami skyline. Get the chilli-passion caipirinha, it balances passionfruit with siracha for an all around awesome cocktail.
Eat: Choose any of the Pubbelly establishments: Pubbelly Sushi, Pubbelly or Barceloneta are all on the same block and are all tapas style: Sushi, gastro pub and Spanish, respectively. After dinner you can walk over to Purdy Lounge for some drinks and a relaxed local vibe. Their fourth outpost, Macchialina, is Italian and physically distant from the first three, but still delicious and cozy. Get the Americano cocktail and don't miss the short rib and tallegio lasagna.
More recommendations: HaVen (gastro-lounge-meets-acid-trip), Lime (fast-casual-Venezuelan take on Mexican food),
See: Juvia – Get a drink and the Salmon Nashi appetizer, enjoy the view and then leave. This place is pure atmosphere; the panoramic views of Miami Beach are unparalleled and the ambiance is classic see-and-be-seen South Beach. The food, however, is forgettable.
Drink: Broken Shaker – Unfortunately they're closed until November 2012, but if you ever come back, you MUST pay them a visit. The bar chefs behind the cocktail consulting company The Bar Lab created a secret garden drinking den and will wow you with their classic and off-the-cuff cocktails. Walk in, order a "Bartender's Choice" (specify what alcohol and flavor profile you prefer), sit down for some Jenga or battleship or play a little ping pong and say hi to their resident cats.
Do: A Duck Tour – I know, they're super cheesy, but embrace the cheesiness. The Duck Tour down here will give you a good overview of South Beach, drive you down Collins and then through Biscayne Bay were you can peep celebrity houses on Star Island and the mansions used for Miami Vice and Scarface. The highlight of the tour, though, is when they hand you a super soaker to hit unsuspecting tourists on Collins Ave.
Walk around Lincoln Road, it’s the Miami equivalent of Santa Monica Blvd, featuring shops, great people watching and plenty of living statues.
Go to the Beach. The Boucher Brothers provide excellent cocktail, umbrella and lounge chair service on the beach and will treat you like hip-hop royalty. If you’re willing to skip the star treatment, head to South Pointe Park near the southern end of the island for easier parking and fewer crowds.
Crash a hotel pool party. Because the party doesn’t have to stop when the sun comes up. Or you can hit the pool at the Loews for a more relaxed atmosphere.
Brickell
Do: Take an airboat ride through the Everglades; gators, herons and the theme song from Deliverance playing in your head all day. There a few different companies that offer them, Everglades Alligator Farm is one and they offer a gator wrestling show and a walk through their snake room after the ride. Make sure you stock up on insect repellent beforehand because the mosquitoes don’t quit down there in the swamp.
Design District/Wynwood
Eat: Micheal's Genuine Food & Drink, Sugarcane, Mandolin Aegean Bistro, Joey’s
Drink: Panther Coffee owners Joel and Leticia have been in the coffee business their whole lives and decided to bless Miami with their expertise, brewing in-house roasted artisan coffee in the middle of uber-hip Wynwood. They source the beans from Nicaragua, Brazil, Columbia etc and their artisan drinks are the best in town. Grab a cappuccino and oogle their antique Perfekt roaster. [Editor's Note: Here is your Intelligentsia.]
Sugarcane, Mercadito, The Corner are all serving up great drinks. Democratic Republic of Beer (tiny bar with 500+ kinds of beer).
See: Wynwood Walls as an intro to the Miami street art scene. The Walls are actually a curated gallery featuring hyper-famous street artists (Shepard Fairey is represented there). Check out mini-documentary, “Here Comes the Neighborhood” for a great teaser. Then, wander the neighborhood (in your car, because it’s still “up and coming”) to browse plenty more larger than life murals.
Wrap-Up
During August and September, a bunch of Miami’s best restaurants participate in Miami Spice and offer prix fixe menus at a discounted rate. Standout deals include: Bourbon Steak (a Michael Mina Restaurant).
For a taste of local flavor before you arrive, be sure to watch the "Shit Miami Girls Say" videos on YouTube. They are spot on, you will see.
Also, I would recommend watching locally-produced documentary "Cocaine Cowboys" so that when you go on the Duck Tour and they tell you Miami Vice spurred Miami's economy in the 70's you can tell them that THEY ARE WRONG, because it was totally the cocaine trade.
[Editor's Note: FUCK YEAH. NOW I NEED TO GO TO MIAMI. p.s. Be sure to check out Caro's six tips for MIAMI-fying your wardrobe.]
First things first: Miami, like Los Angeles, has awful terrible public transportation. If you're feeling adventurous you could venture onto a bus, but you might get shanked, aggressively cat-called and offered questionably sourced narcotics all from the same person. Or at least this is what I have been told; no self-respecting native would be caught dead on a bus. One of my friends just got punched IN THE FACE by a stranger on the train last week. He dislocated his jaw. This is a true story. This is not a joke. Legit, punched.
Coral Gables and Downtown/Brickell/Design District have some free “trolleys” (read: glorified bus) that are more bourgeoisie-approved, clean and probably safer since they don’t run through questionable parts of the city like the metro does. (Think: park your car once and use the trolley to get around the general area.)
I would recommend renting a car. Car2Go just launched as a more eco-friendly Smart-car sharing alternative you could look into, your rental is right on the edge of their “home area” and it looks like you might only have to walk a few blocks to get to a car.
Once you have a car, you’re going to want to stock up on some snacks for your stay, head to the nearest Publix and hit up the bakery for some croquetas de jamon, pastelitos de guava y queso and some chocolate chip cookies because they are fucking amazing. You might also want to pick up some Limon Pepino (Lime-Cucumber) Gatorade, because I’m pretty sure it’s regional and it is delicious! Side note: unlike California, supermarkets don't sell liquor here – only beer and wine – so if you want to buy your own booze you'll have to search for a separate liquor store. I know; it sucks.
As you suspected, Miami has a bunch of little neighborhoods with their own personalities, so I've organized this list by geographical area.
Coral Gables ("The Gables")
Eat: Eating House – some of the most creative, fattening, delicious food in Miami served by the nicest people in town. Come for a casual weeknight meal or the highest-calorie Sunday brunch (1-5PM) of your life (Cap'n Crunch Pancakes covered in condensed milk. Carbonara Eggs Benedict etc etc), either way don't miss the tomato salad (served with nitro-blasted coconut milk, micro herbs and edible flowers for extra fanciness).
(Carbonara Eggs Benedict from Eating House via Thrillist Miami)
Their menu changes daily, but mainstays and crowd favorites are the Pasta Carbonara, Chicken and Waffles and Charred Corn. (Pro-tip: for instant street cred with the staff, be sure to order a Carpano on the rocks. It's sweet vermouth and it's delicious.)
The Biltmore Hotel is dripping with old school charm. Everything they do there is top-notch: food, cocktails, service. The pool at the Biltmore is one of the most unique in Miami, and being off the beach never gets that packed. Splurging for a private cabana will get you the 5-star treatment without spending 5-figures. Cabanas start at $89 a day.
More: Fairchild Tropical Garden (for lots of greenery and exotic flora), Matheson Hammock (waterfront park with boat access and a great romantic seafood restaurant, Red Fish Grill)
Coconut Grove ("The Grove")
Brunch: Green Street serves brunch every day until at least 2 PM, and offers a perfect cure to that Tuesday morning hangover.
Drink: Grab some Icees from A.C.'s in Kennedy Park and enjoy your brain freezes at the waterfront.
See: Burn Notice, set in the old Coconut Grove Convention Center
Calle Ocho/Little Havana
Eat: Versailles – Versailles is the epicenter of Cuban culture in Miami. When the Heat win the playoffs or Castro finally kicks the bucket (or when we pretend he does), Versailles is the place to go with your cazuelas (Cuban for pots and pans) and make as much noise as possible. Other than the culture, the draw here is the food. Beyonce and Jay-Z make Versailles their first stop when visiting town, completely shutting down the back room of the restaurant, but hey, sometimes you just need some moros and platanitos in your life. Anything with pork will be good. For a snack, head to their bakery and pick up some pastelitos and coffee.
(Colada via Arroz y Frijoles)
Cuban coffee is served in three iterations: Café con leche (whole milk lightly stained with espresso), Cortadito (equal parts milk and espresso. Served in a 5 oz cup) or Colada (Sugar stained with espresso, served in 1oz shots. Approach with caution. It’s served in small quantities for a reason. It is jet fuel. It will get you wired. I don’t care how much you think you’re intolerant to caffeine. This is a different beast, trust me.) You can find it all over the city these days, but dozens of little “cafesito” windows line Calle Ocho (8th street) and will provide an authentic experience.
Azucar – Local ice cream shop with some rad flavors, including: Café con Leche, Platano Maduro (sweet plantain), Elvis (peanut butter and banana) and Balsamic Strawberry.
Also recommended: Catharsis, LaCasita
See: Maximo Gomez Domino Park
Do: Viernes Cultural (Cuban ArtWalk), last Friday of every month.
South Beach
Delano is spot on for drinks with a classic South Beach glamour feel. They have a few bars at the hotel: Rose Bar in the lobby, FDR in the basement and a bar out by the pool. I recommend mojitos at the Rose Bar (some of the best in town) or craft cocktails downstairs. Sister hotel Mondrian sits on the opposite side of the island and serves 16 different kinds of caipirinhas. Their west-facing location makes them a perfect spot for watching the sun set over the Miami skyline. Get the chilli-passion caipirinha, it balances passionfruit with siracha for an all around awesome cocktail.
Eat: Choose any of the Pubbelly establishments: Pubbelly Sushi, Pubbelly or Barceloneta are all on the same block and are all tapas style: Sushi, gastro pub and Spanish, respectively. After dinner you can walk over to Purdy Lounge for some drinks and a relaxed local vibe. Their fourth outpost, Macchialina, is Italian and physically distant from the first three, but still delicious and cozy. Get the Americano cocktail and don't miss the short rib and tallegio lasagna.
More recommendations: HaVen (gastro-lounge-meets-acid-trip), Lime (fast-casual-Venezuelan take on Mexican food),
See: Juvia – Get a drink and the Salmon Nashi appetizer, enjoy the view and then leave. This place is pure atmosphere; the panoramic views of Miami Beach are unparalleled and the ambiance is classic see-and-be-seen South Beach. The food, however, is forgettable.
Drink: Broken Shaker – Unfortunately they're closed until November 2012, but if you ever come back, you MUST pay them a visit. The bar chefs behind the cocktail consulting company The Bar Lab created a secret garden drinking den and will wow you with their classic and off-the-cuff cocktails. Walk in, order a "Bartender's Choice" (specify what alcohol and flavor profile you prefer), sit down for some Jenga or battleship or play a little ping pong and say hi to their resident cats.
Do: A Duck Tour – I know, they're super cheesy, but embrace the cheesiness. The Duck Tour down here will give you a good overview of South Beach, drive you down Collins and then through Biscayne Bay were you can peep celebrity houses on Star Island and the mansions used for Miami Vice and Scarface. The highlight of the tour, though, is when they hand you a super soaker to hit unsuspecting tourists on Collins Ave.
Walk around Lincoln Road, it’s the Miami equivalent of Santa Monica Blvd, featuring shops, great people watching and plenty of living statues.
Go to the Beach. The Boucher Brothers provide excellent cocktail, umbrella and lounge chair service on the beach and will treat you like hip-hop royalty. If you’re willing to skip the star treatment, head to South Pointe Park near the southern end of the island for easier parking and fewer crowds.
Crash a hotel pool party. Because the party doesn’t have to stop when the sun comes up. Or you can hit the pool at the Loews for a more relaxed atmosphere.
Brickell
Eat: Edge Steak & Bar for a swank yet approachable date night. Nestled on the 7th floor of the Four Seasons, they excel at service, food and cocktails without being pretentious about it. Stick around after dark for cocktails by the fire pits outside and you might get treated to s’mores featuring graham crackers and chocolate made in house, or come early for their $1 oyster and half-off drinks happy hour (4-7, weekdays). Their signature steak rub and hot sauce are delicious and made from the peppers growing right there on the 7th floor.
Drink: Blackbird Ordinary for expert craft cocktails and a relaxed vibe.The bartenders have plenty of
sass, but they make a good drink, so take the attitude with a grain of salt,
your Cara Cara will be worth it.
Redlands/Homestead
Do: Take an airboat ride through the Everglades; gators, herons and the theme song from Deliverance playing in your head all day. There a few different companies that offer them, Everglades Alligator Farm is one and they offer a gator wrestling show and a walk through their snake room after the ride. Make sure you stock up on insect repellent beforehand because the mosquitoes don’t quit down there in the swamp.
On your way back to civilization pick up some locally grown
exotic fruits and milkshakes at mega-sized fruit stand Robert Is Here (Robert is actually usually there, and super helpful) and some fresh squeezed
juice at Palacio de Los Jugos (Mamey or Guarapo, which is made from sugarcane, are both amazing).
Design District/Wynwood
Eat: Micheal's Genuine Food & Drink, Sugarcane, Mandolin Aegean Bistro, Joey’s
(Miami graffiti by Alexandra Roberts)
Sugarcane, Mercadito, The Corner are all serving up great drinks. Democratic Republic of Beer (tiny bar with 500+ kinds of beer).
See: Wynwood Walls as an intro to the Miami street art scene. The Walls are actually a curated gallery featuring hyper-famous street artists (Shepard Fairey is represented there). Check out mini-documentary, “Here Comes the Neighborhood” for a great teaser. Then, wander the neighborhood (in your car, because it’s still “up and coming”) to browse plenty more larger than life murals.
Wrap-Up
During August and September, a bunch of Miami’s best restaurants participate in Miami Spice and offer prix fixe menus at a discounted rate. Standout deals include: Bourbon Steak (a Michael Mina Restaurant).
For a taste of local flavor before you arrive, be sure to watch the "Shit Miami Girls Say" videos on YouTube. They are spot on, you will see.
Also, I would recommend watching locally-produced documentary "Cocaine Cowboys" so that when you go on the Duck Tour and they tell you Miami Vice spurred Miami's economy in the 70's you can tell them that THEY ARE WRONG, because it was totally the cocaine trade.
[Editor's Note: FUCK YEAH. NOW I NEED TO GO TO MIAMI. p.s. Be sure to check out Caro's six tips for MIAMI-fying your wardrobe.]
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Wednesday, August 1, 2012
where should a couple of Aussies go in HAWAII?
Dear ESB,
FH and I are getting married in Sept in Sydney - great, no problems there. We weren't planning on having a honeymoon due to work commitments, blah blah.
Now good friends of ours are getting married in Hawaii (Kauai) in March and we thought we might go and make it our honeymoon too. Only problem is that I have no idea about where is good to go in Hawaii! I have tried looking online but I have had bad experiences with booking online... the photos seem to lie a lot.
Do you or your readers have any recommendations? We will be going for about 10 days and will spend 4 days on Kauai (at the Outrigger Waipouli beach) for the wedding - after that we need a plan. Not keen on Waikiki or anywhere too touristy - we are beach bums and want something super chilled out and relaxed. Hawaii looks like an awesome place with beautiful scenery and I don't want to ruin it by ending up somewhere built up, in a giant hotel.
Thanks so much in advance!
*****
I enlisted Heather of One Love Photo to help me with this one. Heather's partner Jon is from Hawaii, so they spend a lot of time (and shoot a lot of weddings!) there.
Here's what Heather had to say:
My advice would be to stay on Kauai the whole time and head North to Hanalei right after the wedding.
A perfect day in Hanalei would be; drive to the pier in Hanalei Bay and rent two paddle boards or kayaks. Go for a paddle up the river from the rental place (get a half day rental). Once you get done with your paddle eat some tacos at Pete's Taco truck in the parking lot (best tacos ever). Eat your tacos on the pier with your feet dangling over the edge. Then head over to the bay for a swim. Then drive up to the end of the road to watch the sunset at Ke'e Beach park.
Have dinner back in Hanalei at Neide's Salsa & Samba in the back of Hanalei Center. Get the kalua pork chimichanga then walk across the street for some people watching, music and a super stiff Mai Tai at Tahiti Nui.
Accommodations
I would recommend renting a condo through VRBO (vacation rental by owner) or Craigslist for a full week while in Hawaii. You will get the best rate if you do a full week. We have scored some great deals through both websites. The last time we visited Kauai we got a two bedroom, two bath fully furnished condo with kitchen, Lanai and full ocean view in Princeville for $125.00 per night! The key is to book your room as last minute as possible to get the cheapest rates. Princeville is a a golf community on the Northshore. Tons of condos, very developed and a little weird but it has great rates and the island beauty is a short 5-10 minute drive right outside of "condoland."
Kauai Food
Kintaro -- On the east side, in Wailua, right after you cross the river going toward the north shore from the airport on your right. The best sushi I have ever had, hands down. Get a Hanalei Roll and have a sake drop. Gets really busy, so you might want to make a reservation.
Postcards -- In Hanalei, on the left right when you first get into town. It is small and lovely and the food is really good. Always lots of hippies in the kitchen ;)
The Hanalei Gourmet -- Go on fish taco night -- they are the best! The Gourmet also has great drinks and live music.
Tahiti Nui -- This is the most classic, local-style, shady-business bar in Hanalei -- it's awesome. Karaoke, cheap(er) drinks, great people watching.
Best Beaches
Ke'e Beach -- The very end of the road, on the north shore. Great snorkeling. This is also where the Na Pali coast begins. If you like to hike, take the trail to Hanakapiai (a couple of miles.) Amazing views! The trail ends in Kalalau Valley, kind of a gnarly hike but you will get amazing pictures!
Tunnels -- This is before you get to Ke'e. Gets really busy, but if you go down the beach in either direction you can usually find your own spot away from people. Really great snorkeling and diving.
Hanalei Bay -- In Hanalei. Sandy, nice, mellow surf (except in winter) great for kayaking or just swimming/walking, etc.
All time Best!
If you're planning to do anything active, I would rent kayaks or Stand Up Paddle Boards and go down the Wailua River on the East side or the Hanalei River. So beautiful!!!
Hit a Farmers market or two. Make sure that one of them is the Tuesday afternoon market in Waipa (just outside of Hanalei when you are heading to the end of the road). It is the best. Everyone lines up right before it opens at 2pm and then when they open it up everyone rushes the stands to get their goods.
Cocktails at the Princeville Hotel -- swanky and spectacular -- get drinks in the lobby at sunset and feel like a rock star.
Other fun stuff to see....
Art Walk in Hanapepe
Waimea Canyon -- Can't miss this, Grand Canyon Hawaii style, eat lunch after your drive up to the viewpoint not before. Small windy roads!
Glass Beach -- AWESOME if you like beach-combing. Do the canyon and glass beach earlier in the week while staying at the wedding resort (less driving).
Thanks, Heather! NOW WE ALL WANT A MAI TAI.
Images by One Love Photo
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Sunday, June 17, 2012
What should I be doing in AUSTIN??
Sooooooooo I've been in Austin for almost a week, visiting my MIL, helping H with a shoot, and mostly sitting on my ass. I begged Kat (one of my fave Texans I've never met) to write something that would inspire me to drag H out of the house....
Here's Kat:
Helloooooo ESB-ers! As we all know, Austin pretty much kicks ass. In fact, Ms. ESB is there right now (and for some reason HAS NOT EATEN FRITO PIE YET). As such, she’s asked me to put together a wee lil what-to-do-in-Austin post.
Now, this list is by no means all-inclusive. My husband and I visit a lot because we have family and friends there. We tend to do things on the cheap so that we can spend our dollars on really great, locally-made stuff from incredible artists. We’re also kind of outdoorsy and like to spend a lot of time hiking, walking, or just sitting outside in the shade with a good beer. Austin is perfect for being outside (when the weather isn’t super hot), so I cannot recommend enough that you explore the outdoor activities the city has to offer!
Food:
Torchy’s Tacos, Tacodeli, and Taco Shack – All Austin institutions. Pretty delicious. I prefer Tacodeli, but really, it’s like picking a favorite ice cream. Can’t lose.
Spider House Cafe – A funky neighborhood coffee/tea spot. Kombucha on tap (if you like that stuff. GROSS.) Great atmosphere.
Caffe Medici – Seriously good coffee, and the one on West Lynn is in an adorable neighborhood.
P. Terry’s – Austin’s (much better) version of In-N-Out burger. Their black bean burger is delicious, and their fries are great. We always try to hit it. Several locations around town.
Iron Works – Really good old-school Texas barbeque in downtown Austin. They have a 2-story porch that overlooks the creek.
(Iron Works BBQ via Meat Meister)
Amy’s Ice Cream – An amazing Austin ice cream shop (that’s spread all over Texas). Actually, it’s more like frozen custard. Really intensely rich and so, so good. My father-in-law calls all locations near him when it’s time for Peppermint Ice Cream to hit the coolers and stocks up for the year.
Mi Madre’s – Excellent Mexican food. We try and go for breakfast. And don’t worry if it looks crowded or if you have a hard time finding a parking spot – the restaurant has TONS of seating, so send someone in to check if there’s a wait. There usually isn’t.
Thunderbird Coffee – good coffee, great atmosphere.
Stuff to Do:
South Congress – This is typically what we do on any given trip. It’s touristy and popular, but for a reason: it’s Austin in a nutshell. There are great shops, restaurants, and street vendors, and the whole drag is walkable. I recommend starting with breakfast either at Magnolia Cafe (on S. Congress & Johanna) or at Jo’s Hot Coffee & Good Food (the sight of the famous “I Love You” graffiti, on the north end at S. Congress and James). Do it before it gets too hot. You can eat lunch anywhere on the strip – there are tons of food trucks and a few good restaurants worth checking out. They offer everything from cilantro lemonade to Thai food, so I recommend surveying before settling on one place.
6th Street – Hit 6th Street after dark if you’re into bar-hopping. If you go around dinner time, lots of bars have rooftop seating and you can enjoy a nice drink before all the college kids get there. It’s a major spot for college students and bachelorette parties, so be aware that it gets kind of loud and crazy after 10 pm. They close the street down at night for safe(ish) walking conditions.
Hamilton Pool Nature Reserve – If you can spare the 30-minute drive, this is totally worth it. A great swimming hole and perfect for the humid and hot Austin summers.
Barton Springs Pool – Also a great place to swim, but in Austin proper. It’s COLD, so be prepared!
(Barton Springs via The Edwards Aquifer Website)
Bob Bollock Texas State History Museum – Again, I’m kind of a nerd about these things, and I love it. The last time we were there, artifacts from the “Belle” (La Salle’s ship) were on display. Really, really awesome.
Tubing on the Guadalupe – There is nothing better than taking a day to drink beer and float on the river when it’s blazing hot outside. It’s one of the post popular things to do in the Texas Hill Country (and for good reason). So if you have an extra day to do it, pack up a cooler (here are the rules about open containers) and head south on I-35 for about 30 minutes to New Braunfels. Now, you can tube on most rivers in the area, but the Comal recently adopted some strict rules about river activities. So tubing the Guadalupe is the way to go. AND DON’T FORGET SUNSCREEN. You will fry otherwise!
Here are the directions (there are a couple of ways to get there): The first is to go south on I-35 and exit for FM 306. This way tends to be packed and slow-going, so if that’s the case, then do this: go south on I-35, take the exit for 306, go straight until you see Hwy 337, and turn right onto Hwy 337. You’ll cross over Hwy 46 once, but when you see it again, turn right on it, then turn right onto FM 2722 and then take another right on FM 2673. It’ll be on your right when you dead-end into FM 306.
Pedernales Falls – Less than a hour away, this state park is really beautiful. A nice break from the city. Great hikes.
Uncommon Objects – Fantastic thrift/junk-type shop on South Congress. I could spend hours in there.
(Uncommon Objects via The Curious Reserve)
By George – Beautiful clothes. Can’t say enough good things about this boutique.
Toy Joy – A really, really cool toy shop stocked floor-to-ceiling with all kinds of neat shit.
Prototype Vintage Design – on South Congress and Milton. Not thrift prices, but really great. Honestly, any vintage shops on South Congress are very well-stocked and not too expensive. I’ve found some amazing stuff on this street.
Hike in Zilker Park – Austin has good parks and is famous for outdoor activities, and this is no exception.
Places I haven’t tried, but are on the list:
Salt Lick (in Driftwood, NOT ROUND ROCK) – One of the most famous barbeque places in the state. Nick is chomping at the bit to try the one in Driftwood after a visit to the mediocre location in Round Rock. I’m vegetarian, but I would totally try their brisket.
Uchiko – Everyone is raving about this Japanese food place, so it must be good. It’s on the list. [Editor's Note: My MIL took us here the day after I arrived. It is NOT cheap -- we did a tasting menu, and I'd rather not know what the final bill came to -- but it was truly an incredible meal.]
(Uchiko)
Contigo – Abby Powell did a little spot about it on her blog, and I’m now VERY interested in eating here.
Yellow Jacket Social Club – I honestly don’t know why we haven’t been here yet. The food (I’ve been told) is fantastic.
Taco Xpress – I’m always on the hunt for a good migas taco, and rumor is, theirs is awesome.
Bows + Arrows – This shop’s stuff has made the rounds on the interwebs and looks really fantastic. Can’t wait to go there. [Update: The proprietress of Bows + Arrows up and moved to Nashville. Her new shop, Arrow and Arrow, is online only. There is a pair of cute stores, JM Dry Goods and Spartan, at 215 South Lamar where B+A used to be. ]
Take Heart – Again: gorgeous stuff.
Schatzelein – Beautiful jewelry from independent designers.
Finch – Sells some fun stuff, including Heath Ceramics.
Strut – Great prices. From what I’ve heard, some really fun things can be found here.
Eastside Café – Have heard so many good things about this place. Definitely worth a shot.
So I hope that’s enough to get you started should you ever be in the area. Austin is always changing and new shops and restaurants are constantly opening. You really can’t go wrong as long as you stay away from chains!
(Photo at top: Daniel Johnston's Austin mural via myspace)
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Wednesday, April 4, 2012
where should a couple of Aussies go in NYC? (The Follow Up)
Just wanted to drop you a line to say thanks for posting our What-to-do-in-NYC honeymoon question.
Firstly, remember these? They were awesome. Perfect for every day and are now broken in to perfection.
Second, the puffer. I took both you and your commenters' advice and took a slim(ish) puffer and a dressier woolen coat. Worked a treat. We arrived on a 14 degree day and I was very grateful for the puff. Was also grateful for the wool when we went out for fancy dinner.
Finally, I want to say a huge thank you to everyone who commented and suggested places to go, things to eat and stuff to do. Amongst many other things we did WD50, walked the Highline, ate at Shake Shack, Grimaldi's, Caracas Arepa, La Esquina, The Meatball Shop, Doughnut Plant and Schiller's. We went down a crazy slide at the New Museum, went to the Brooklyn Flea, and attempted entry to a speakeasy or two...
Thanks to everyone involved with suggestions.
*****
Missing New York like crazeballs over here.
Man I ♥ NY.
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Thursday, March 29, 2012
What should a pair of Texans do in Louisville, Nashville, Gatlinburg, Asheville + Lexington??
(Hatch Show Print)
Dear ESB,
My husband and I are taking our first post-honeymoon vacation together next month. We're getting the hell out of the cold, gray, bleak Midwestern town where we currently live and heading south for a road trip through Kentucky, North Carolina, and Tennessee (specifically Louisville, Nashville, Gatlinburg, Asheville, and Lexington).
We don't exactly know what to do while we're there, we're just looking for warmer weather, good food, and southern hospitality (we're from Texas, so we miss it). I know this is a long shot, but do you (or perhaps some of your southern readers/twitter followers) have any advice on where we should go/eat/shop?
We're hoping to find some of the gems that only the locals know about, especially if they won't cost a ton (husband's finishing his PhD, I'm a teacher, so um...not exactly rolling in it).
*****
I've corralled a couple of experts on Nashville and Asheville -- no pun intended -- and I figure I'll let our readers fill in the rest.
Here's Naurnie on Nashville:
When ESB put out the APB on Twitter last week about folks needing Nashville vacation advice, I jumped at the chance. Nashville. My city. I moved away almost two years ago and still I miss it every day. I've put together some things to do in town that are not only local friendly, but also a little touristy just for good measure. Because when you get down to brass tacks, doing some of the touristy junk in Nashville is actually pretty damn fun.
Downtown:
When most people head to Nashville on a vacation, they're normally coming to the downtown area. While, lower Broadway is teeming with rednecks in their cutoffs and Elvis tattoos, the area still offers plenty in the way of cool shit to do (and the people watching can't be beat.) If you are on lower Broadway in the broad daylight, you should hit up the legendary Hatch Show Print. They have been making screen print posters with their distinctive designs since 1879. They've done posters for everyone from the White Stripes to Patsy Cline and everyone in between. They even sell stock posters out of the store front so you can take one home to frame in your kitchen.
(Robert's Western World via Viator)
Just around the corner is the historic Ryman Auditorium, the Mother Church of Country Music and my own personal favorite venue to ever see a show EVER. It was where they broadcast the Grand Ole Opry, among other things, and they offer daily tours. You shouldn't miss it. Johnny Cash kicked the stage lights out in 1965. Those walls hold a lot of stories. Check the schedule, too. You might be able to score some tickets to a pretty bad ass show. You can also walk to the Country Music Hall of Fame. You might not be a fan of country music, but there is a lot of really interesting stuff in there including a car belonging to Elvis (it's tacky in a good way) and Gram Parsons' famous Nudie suit.
East Nashville:
On the other side of the river from downtown is really where most of the cool folks in Nashville spend their free time. It's a neighborhood called East Nashville, and if you ask me it's where the best restaurants are. Have a nice glass of wine in the back yard of Rumour's East, a very lovely wine bar in an old bungalow with a gorgeous back patio. After you've enjoyed your wine, walk on down to Margot Cafe for a very tasty dinner. It's award winning, delicious, and I highly recommend reservations. Across the street from Margot is 3 Crow Bar, a local watering hole. Grab a bushwhacker and hang out for awhile.
Also on the East Side is Marche. It's a GREAT place for brunch and is owned by the same lady who owns Margot Cafe. Again, a reservation on a weekend is highly recommended. Both restaurants have a large focus on local foods. There is also The Pharmacy, an old-school burger parlor & beer garden where you can get specialty burgers and sit outside. Enjoy the spring weather.
(House-made wurst from The Pharmacy by Eric England via Nashville Scene)
Germantown:
Another one of my favorite Nashville haunts is City House. DO NOT MISS THIS. Just don't. It's so good.
Nights in Nashville can be quite fun. I'd say at any given night, hit up the Patterson House for some delicious cocktails. Don't be alarmed; there is no sign on the outside of this old house that serves as a speak easy. They make all of their own bitters and juices, and if you can, get a Sazerac. You will not be disappointed. The Station Inn is also a great place for a night time adventure. It's typically a bluegrass venue, but you can head in there on any given night and see any number of amazing musicians.
Imogene + Willie is located in the 12 South area. It's a fabulous little joint that smells so good and has the best stuff. Matt + Carrie, the owners, have designed their own line of denim that they make and sell out of their renovated gas station front. They also have various vintage goods and friendly help. Down the street from Imogene + Willie is Burger Up, a fantastic restaurant with gourmet burgers in a very relaxed atmosphere. Walk another couple of blocks and grab a home made Mexican popsicle from Las Paletas. You can enjoy your tasty treat in the park across the street.
(Imogene + Willie via the K.I.D. Collective)
If you're like me and you can't get enough of digging through bins for vinyl, check out Grimey's for new and pre-loved music. Also, Nashville is home to Jack White's Third Man Records. Visit their brick and mortar location to grab some great vinyl and look at some taxidermy.
My general advice: Enjoy yourself. Ask people around you questions. Nashvillians are so very nice, and they love to talk about their city. They can give you advice about what to do if you find yourself in an unfamiliar location and are always willing to show you where to go. And? Avoid lines at the Pancake Pantry. It looks tempting, I know. But it's disgusting and you don't want to wait in line that long for disappointing pancakes.
****
And here's cevd on Asheville:
ok, so here is the list of MUSTS, followed by the list of if you have times:
1. cúrate - if you do one thing in AVL, please, PLEASE let it be eating here. in fact I'd go as far as to say that if you weren't planning a trip to AVL you should change your plans only so you can eat here. seriously deeeeeeeeelish.
2. grab lunch from laurey's and head up into the blue ridge mountains. it's going to be beautiful there until november so it doesn't really matter when you go. but do it, spend some time outside, re-live the hunger games if you must, just go. my favorite spots include graveyard fields and mount mitchell, but here's a list for you, just in case.
2A. 12 bones. you guys i nearly forgot this one, and it is IMPORTANT that you go. maybe just slightly more important that laurey's? you can get 12 bones to go as well, but then you miss out on the never ending bbq sauce and very good beer selection.
3. hit up the j.crew outlet, it's just off the blue ridge parkway, it'll be easy! i know I'm going to be blasted into the ether for even saying j.crew in this post, but whatever. it's one of those honest to goodness outlets where you can buy clothes that say SAMPLE on them. also, they always have madewell denim for like $20 and last time I went I scored the cutest alexa chung for madewell dress. totally worth it. oh and if you happen to be there on a weekend when they are doing the all out warehouse sale, go. i've found designer dresses with barneys' tags on them. seriously, this is the real deal. [Editor's Note: that's cool. you all know I left this one in because of the madewell thing. right??]
4. grab a beer and walk around downtown, maybe in the reverse order? blue spiral 1, mast general store, and others. just stroll, you'll love it.
5. tupelo honey. the S. AVL outpost is a bit less crowded than downtown, but maybe no longer open for breakfast on the weekdays? if you're downtown, they'll serve you breakfast, but you'll wait. however I will say that the ginger cornbread, warm biscuits, sweet potato pancakes, eggs betty, and grilled cheese are all worth it. also, the S. AVL one is kind of lame in that new big restaurant way. it is by no means a chain, but still, the downtown version is cute and quaint and lively, you might not want to skip it.
6. FRENCH BROAD CHOCOLATE LOUNGE. skip dessert at cúrate, oooh it hurts to say that, and head over to the chocolate lounge. get the highland mocha stout cake and the indian kulfi sipping chocolate. go to bed happy.
7. check the schedule at the orange peel. it's one of the best venues i've ever been to.
now if you find yourself with more time to kill :
DINNER : if you're around for another dinner here is my list in order ... the admiral, doc chey's, limones, posana, and table
SHOPPING : head to biltmore village. there is this great jewelry store there, blue, amazing, they make just about everything in house and i've scored some really wonderful pieces there. the rest of the village is pretty suburban, j.crew. williams sonoma. brooks brothers. lilly pulitzer. but it's cute and cobblestoned and the obama's had dinner at the corner kitchen, so there's that.
STUFF : i guess you could go to the biltmore estate. people love it. it's huge, and the grounds are well kept. also, do you like to zip line? if so, i'd say go with navitat
NOW I WANNA TO GO ON A ROAD TRIP.
My general advice: Enjoy yourself. Ask people around you questions. Nashvillians are so very nice, and they love to talk about their city. They can give you advice about what to do if you find yourself in an unfamiliar location and are always willing to show you where to go. And? Avoid lines at the Pancake Pantry. It looks tempting, I know. But it's disgusting and you don't want to wait in line that long for disappointing pancakes.
****
And here's cevd on Asheville:
ok, so here is the list of MUSTS, followed by the list of if you have times:
1. cúrate - if you do one thing in AVL, please, PLEASE let it be eating here. in fact I'd go as far as to say that if you weren't planning a trip to AVL you should change your plans only so you can eat here. seriously deeeeeeeeelish.
(Cúrate)
2. grab lunch from laurey's and head up into the blue ridge mountains. it's going to be beautiful there until november so it doesn't really matter when you go. but do it, spend some time outside, re-live the hunger games if you must, just go. my favorite spots include graveyard fields and mount mitchell, but here's a list for you, just in case.
2A. 12 bones. you guys i nearly forgot this one, and it is IMPORTANT that you go. maybe just slightly more important that laurey's? you can get 12 bones to go as well, but then you miss out on the never ending bbq sauce and very good beer selection.
3. hit up the j.crew outlet, it's just off the blue ridge parkway, it'll be easy! i know I'm going to be blasted into the ether for even saying j.crew in this post, but whatever. it's one of those honest to goodness outlets where you can buy clothes that say SAMPLE on them. also, they always have madewell denim for like $20 and last time I went I scored the cutest alexa chung for madewell dress. totally worth it. oh and if you happen to be there on a weekend when they are doing the all out warehouse sale, go. i've found designer dresses with barneys' tags on them. seriously, this is the real deal. [Editor's Note: that's cool. you all know I left this one in because of the madewell thing. right??]
4. grab a beer and walk around downtown, maybe in the reverse order? blue spiral 1, mast general store, and others. just stroll, you'll love it.
5. tupelo honey. the S. AVL outpost is a bit less crowded than downtown, but maybe no longer open for breakfast on the weekdays? if you're downtown, they'll serve you breakfast, but you'll wait. however I will say that the ginger cornbread, warm biscuits, sweet potato pancakes, eggs betty, and grilled cheese are all worth it. also, the S. AVL one is kind of lame in that new big restaurant way. it is by no means a chain, but still, the downtown version is cute and quaint and lively, you might not want to skip it.
(The Orange Peel via Skyscraper City)
6. FRENCH BROAD CHOCOLATE LOUNGE. skip dessert at cúrate, oooh it hurts to say that, and head over to the chocolate lounge. get the highland mocha stout cake and the indian kulfi sipping chocolate. go to bed happy.
now if you find yourself with more time to kill :
DINNER : if you're around for another dinner here is my list in order ... the admiral, doc chey's, limones, posana, and table
SHOPPING : head to biltmore village. there is this great jewelry store there, blue, amazing, they make just about everything in house and i've scored some really wonderful pieces there. the rest of the village is pretty suburban, j.crew. williams sonoma. brooks brothers. lilly pulitzer. but it's cute and cobblestoned and the obama's had dinner at the corner kitchen, so there's that.
STUFF : i guess you could go to the biltmore estate. people love it. it's huge, and the grounds are well kept. also, do you like to zip line? if so, i'd say go with navitat
NOW I WANNA TO GO ON A ROAD TRIP.
Posted by esb at
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What should a pair of Texans do in Louisville, Nashville, Gatlinburg, Asheville + Lexington??
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