What should a couple of country bumpkins and/or Angelenos and/or Aussies do in SF?

Dear ESB

What should two thirtysomething country bumpkins from England do in San Francisco in early June? 

We'll be staying for 6 nights and have done a bit of research on the 'touristy' things we'd like to do - see the Golden Gate Bridge, hike in Muir Woods etc. but would love some ideas from your awesome readers.

Staying in the financial district (random I know - but it was super cheap and we're prepared to walk/catch the bus etc).

Like -

Antiques/curiosity shops

Hiking

CHEESECAKE

Indian food

American food (traditional and fusion)

Interesting baby/toy/nursery shops

Dislike -

Pretentious bars where they charge an extra $5 per drink just because the bartenders are wearing idiotic looking bow ties and flat caps

Hawkers

If any of your readers ever want advice on good hiking spots in England I'll be happy to return the favour...

Thanks ESB -

*****

First off, NEVER USE THAT FONT AGAIN. Do you srsly send all your emails in that font??

Second, I keep getting requests for San Francisco guides, and I keep ignoring them because San Francisco is my home town and I'd really like to be able to write the damn guide myself but the truth is I'm not qualified....

So. Here are a few of my favorite places in SF:

Paxton Gate = the best curiosity shop EVAR. Perfect place to buy your dad a skull.

Dosa (a few blocks from Paxton Gate) = delish, upscale Indian

Humphry Slocombe (also within walking distance) = the best, weirdest ice cream. Get the sundae with Blue Bottle Vietnamese coffee ice cream + prosciutto ice cream. Trust.

The Alembic (in the Haight) = the best cocktails, which you would most certainly deem pretentious. OH SHIT HE'S WEARING A CAP.

Eric's (in Noe Valley, where I grew up) = my old favorite Chinese restaurant. House of Nanking (in Chinatown) is also terrif.

I leave it to the current residents to offer more recommends.... Most importantly, who can recommend the best BURRITOS? La Cumbre was my jam back in the day, but I'm willing to recognize that there may be better burritos.

Note: San Francisco is the burrito capital of the world, which means you're required to eat at least two each while you're in town.


Anyone know who took the photo?

Help! I'm in London! And sad.

Dear esb,

I know your internet access is an issue, but I'm still hoping you can help me.  

I'm from the States and traveling alone in London until May 6th, and I learned that my super amazing grandmother passed away today. She loved to travel second only to church and her family (& maybe brigham's ice cream) so I've decided to continue on with my trip. 

Here are my questions:


What are the best places in London for a weary heart? Where can a girl go to feel a sense of peace?


What are the best places in London for great rings?  I need a wedding band for my vintage (1910s) engagement ring and I thought looking here might add a sense of purpose to my trip.

Lots of love, 

K

P.S. I'm staying in Bloomsbury, if that helps. 


P.P.S. Is it weird to ask if any London esb readers want to grab a drink this week? It is. I'm a weirdo.

*****

Sometimes I fantasize about doing away with the blog. Especially when I'm gallivanting around eating oysters and drinking cocktails (and oh yeah working another job. two other jobs.). I start to think: Blah blah blah weddings. Blah blah shoes. Blah blah bridesmaids dresses.

And then I get an email like this and I instantly feel a sense of purpose. And a weirdo feeling of kinship with all you lovely weirdos....


HELP, LONDON! HELP OUR SISTER FRIEND!!

And for the love of god somebody take her out for a drink.

audrey marnay by paolo roversi for vogue italia october 1998 via

A Brooklyn travel guide for wedding sh!t?

Hi there,

I've loved the travel guides you've been posting recently. As a new reader, please forgive me if I missed the Brooklyn wedding version. (I promise I did look through the archives.)  

Where besides Catbird should I go to find interesting/artisan/unusual/finely designed/ohpleasegodnotthis rings, and to browse wedding dresses that don't make me feel like the dress is wearing me? The honest truth is I used to live in Brooklyn, but at that time I was 100% never ever ever going to get married, so now that I'm eating my words I need someone to remind me where all those awesome places I saw out of the corner of my eye but insisted on ignoring can be found!

Thankyouthankyouthankyou

*****

Brooklyn is the jewelry-that-I-love capital of the world. Catbird, Scosha, Macha, and Erie Basin are all worth visiting, and if you don't find SEVERAL rings you love, there is something wrong with you.

Brooklyn is not, however, a good place to shop for a wedding dress. I am sorry to say. (Or maybe not that sorry actually. Go to Soho? Or make an appointment at Stone Fox Bride. While you're in the neighborhood, you should probs make an appointment with Anna Sheffield, too.)


Miranda Kerr by Terry Richardson for Harper's Bazaar

A low-key wedding in Edinburgh?

Dear ESB,

In order to avoid the ALABAMA WEDDING MACHINE, my fiancé and I have elected to "elope" (with ~35 close friends and family) to Edinburgh next spring. 

Do you or your readers have any suggestions of venues to hold a low-key reception? Anything else that is a must-do in Edinburgh?

Thank you!

*****

Kirsty from A Safe Mooring has written you a SLAMMIN where-to-get-married-in-Edinburgh guide. (And also included must-dos such as a good smelly cheese shop + a creepy museum because duh.)

Here she is:

First off, congratulations! You're joining a long line of vagabonds and misfits who have eloped to our fair nation over the centuries. Generally speaking, people eloping to Scotland have been fleeing from parental disapproval and pesky age limits, but the Alabama Wedding Machine sounds equally forbidding.

Before I get started on reception venues, a quick word on ceremonies. Civil marriages in Scotland have to take place either in a registry office (Lothian Chambers is a beautiful one, bang in the middle of the Old Town) or in a place that has been formally approved by the City Council (here's a list of approved places). Most popular reception venues are approved for ceremonies, as are a random assortment of public buildings from the whisky society to the zoo.

In keeping with our tradition of liberal marriage laws, Scotland is also one of only six countries in the world where a humanist ceremony is legally binding. Unlike their civil counterparts, humanist and religious weddings can happen absolutely anywhere. That includes the great outdoors, if you're willing to gamble on the Scottish elements. (Pro tip: bring an umbrella. Even in spring. Especially in spring.) If you're being married by a humanist or religious celebrant though, you'll need to pick up your wedding licence at least seven days before the wedding, so make sure you keep that in mind when you're planning your trip.

So, on to the reception. Edinburgh is a city of many characters. The so-called New Town (strictly speaking it's not all that new, but wait until we get to the Old Town) is filled with airy Georgian terraces and elegant neo-classical architecture. If you were looking for something super glamorous, I'd suggest Edinburgh landmark The Dome. An intimate dinner in one of its private rooms, followed by cocktails in the glass-domed bar, wouldn't be bad at all. But for something more low-key, try Howies Restaurant on Waterloo Place instead. It mixes a beautiful period interior with fresh Scottish food (and has that all-important civil ceremony licence, should you decide to keep things all under one roof). If you really want to channel your inner Jane Austen, the Georgian House, run by the National Trust for Scotland and next door to the First Minister's pad, is the real deal.

That's classic European elegance out of the way; let's move on to something a little darker (metaphorically and quite literally). Edinburgh's historic Old Town is riddled with vaults, alleys and sinister tales. The growth of the Edinburgh Festival Fringe has seen many dingy, forgotten spaces opened up and transformed into venues. Lucky for you, the Fringe is in August, so come springtime you'll have your pick.

Marlin's Wynd and the Rowantree are both worth investigating. Ancient, candle-lit vaults built into the very fabric of the city... it doesn't get more atmospheric than that, as long as you don't mind a venue with a bit of witch-hunting and the occasional murder in its past. Hey, nowhere's perfect. If you'd prefer somewhere with actual daylight, the Secret Garden is an old close (alley) that has been glassed over and turned into a restaurant. Old Town charm with added vitamin D. The food's pretty tasty too, and the service is excellent.

Just around the corner from these crumbly old cellars is something at the very opposite end of the spectrum: the Hotel Missoni. From the men in chevron-patterened kilts flanking the entrance to the branded bathroom stalls, everything about the place screams Italian passion and fun. Why they chose to open in Edinburgh is beyond me - the spiritual home of dour Presbyterianism isn't exactly known for embracing la dolce vita - but I'm not complaining. It's even right across the road from the registry office.

If you're just looking for somewhere reasonably priced and relatively stylish where you can treat your nearest and dearest to a good meal, then Edinburgh has no shortage of restaurants. La Garrigue and Iggs are particular favourites if you fancy some European flavour. Timberyard is a relatively recent addition but it's already making a big impression; the interior is as stylish as it gets, and the food has been going down a storm. It also boasts an enclosed courtyard, perfect if you're lucky enough to see some of Edinburgh's rare spring sunshine. (I really wasn't kidding about the umbrella.)

As for must-dos, I'm reliably informed by my American friends that a massive castle in the middle of the city never gets old. The best view of it is from Calton Hill (you can actually rent out Old Observatory House, which sits on top of the hill, if you're looking for somewhere really special to stay).

Edinburgh's a fairly compact city with lots of meandering streets, so it's ideal for those who like to wander. For shopping, I'd avoid the chain stores of Princes Street and the abominable tartan shops of the Royal Mile. Instead, head for the independent boutiques dotted along West Bow, the Grassmarket and West Port. Admire work by local artists and designers at Red Door Gallery or Black Box Boutique, indulge in some seriously smelly cheese from Iain Mellis, and finger some Scottish cashmere and Anta soft wool blankets (preferably do this before you've fingered the cheese).

If you feel like venturing outside the city centre, the Shore area of Leith is worth visiting for some fresh Scottish seafood (try Fishers, or The Ship for the best fish and chips you'll ever have). And just along the road is an attraction that I recommend without a trace of irony: the Royal Yacht Britannia. It's like your granny's kitsch holiday house has been blown up and floated out to sea. If your granny were the Queen.

For those into museums, the recently-reopened National Museum is pretty excellent (oh hey, and it has a ceremony licence and a great restaurant too - let's add that to the list, shall we?). And lastly, because anything London can do we can do better (you'll find this is a common theme in Scotland), we have our very own museum of creepiness, with a bonus serving of serial killer. Enjoy.

p.s. I also found you a PHOTOGRAPHER! (Okay, Kirsty found you a photographer.) These images from Lorna & Dave's wedding are by Edinburgh-based Lauren McGlynn.

What should a cool Brazilian girl do in PARIS, Rome + Copenhagen?

Dear ESB...

Hey there!! (Remember me? I wrote the post about São Paulo...)

I am traveling with my family to Europe on April, and I was wondering if you are in the mood for another city-guide type of post.

We're visiting Paris, Rome and Copenhagen. I have never been to Rome, so I'm super excited to see all the touristy stuff, and major landmarks...

I have been in Paris before, and would love for some not so popular, but equally cool places to see and to eat and to go out at night (my brother is a tango dancer so at least one night we're book for dancing)...I'm not planning to splurge on shopping, perhaps a visit to Monoprix...heheh...

And Copenhagen, of course, we chose for the price of the plane tickets....heheh...and we have no idea what to expect or visit over there, and all that comes to mind is Hamlet and The Little Mermaid. I visited the Lonely Planet and discovered that is a jazz-loving city. And that's it!

If you find someone to send advice on either city I would be deeply and forever thankful!

<3

*****

It took me FOREVER to get someone to write up Paris. I think maybe Parisian women are too cool for ESB?

Anyhoo. The adorable (Irish) Badger and Bear finally volunteered, and when I saw this photo on her blog I knew she could handle the job....

Most of the things I love most about Paris involve food, wine, and people-watching, so this guide reflects that. I think most of the museums are over-rated, though I do make an exception for the marble polar bear in the Musée d'Orsay, and I do have some nostalgia for the Musée Rodin, since I proposed to my fiancé in a tiny cafe nearby.

(Praline Macaron from Pierre Hermé)

For food and wine and wandering all together, I still think the Marais is worth spending an afternoon in, although many think it's too gentrified now. This was historically the Jewish quarter, and still boasts a very popular Yiddish bakery (Sacha Finkelstein's) which the Parisians adore, although personally I think you're better off grabbing lunch to go from L'As Du Fallafel nearby. The Marais is now home to a lively gay scene, which makes for excellent people-watching and bar-hopping. La Belle Hortense (a wine-bar/book shop) and Le Petit Fer à Cheval (proper old Parisian hang-out with a stunning marble horse shoe-shaped bar) are some of my favourite watering holes here.

There plenty of great open-air food markets all around Paris, but one of my favourites is Bastille Market (Thursdays and Sundays), not far from the Marais. Here, the stall-holders compete loudly for the attention of passersby, and even the hippest young things tote granny trolleys for their baguettes and fromage. Also, the Promenade Plantée (which starts near the market) is worth a look, it's a public garden and walkway planted on an old railway line overlooking Paris, and apparently inspired the creation of the High Line in New York.

(La Promenade Plantée by Amy Toensing via HiP Paris)

If the Marais isn't edgy enough for you, then Belleville is what you're after. Properly gritty and hip, with prostitutes touting their wares most afternoons, the spectacular graffiti displays on Rue Denoyez make the adventure worthwhile. Grab a drink at Aux Folies and watch the world go by. Also make sure to visit Au Rouleau de Printemps for the best Vietnamese sandwiches I've yet had in Europe. Oh and the step on which Edith Piaf was said to be born is also nearby. From here, you can also easily visit the Buttes Chaumont, a beautiful, if lesser-known Parisian park, where the Temple of Sybil sits atop a hill, and there's even a film festival here in September, where they show movies in the park after dark.

The quintessential Parisian park though has to be the Luxembourg Gardens. My love for it may or may not be influenced by an amazing macaron experience I once had there (involving a giant raspberry macaron, stuffed with vanilla cream and fresh raspberries) - but in any case, it's worth a visit. It often has live music in the summer months under the bandstand, and has great paths for running on, plenty of ice-cream and waffle vendors around the edges of the park, and deck-chairs for people watching from and flicking cigarette ash at pigeons. The French Senate is housed in the old palace in the grounds of the Garden, and is spectacularly beautiful inside, so if you can manage to fit in a tour, it's well worth it.

If you want to play at being Amelie (or better yet, Audrey Hepburn in Sabrina), take a stroll through Montmatre. Dodge the hawkers offering to braid your hair or make you a friendship bracelet and climb the steps to Sacre Coeur (or if you're lazy, hop on the funicular), to peer out over the city through the viewfinders at the top of the hill. Montmatre itself has become quite touristy, but the nearby area Abbesses is quieter, and I think cooler. Try the tiny, crazy Argentinian bar Les Canons, or the excellent eatery Le Petit Parisien, where you MUST order the 'poulet roti de nos enfances' - which comes with dreamy puréed potatoes and a sprig of thyme, still smouldering from the fire.

(Parisian Hipsters by Théo Gosselin via I Like to Waste My Time) 

Finally, the two properly touristy things which I think are worth doing, are to visit Père Lachaise cemetery, final resting place of Oscar Wilde, Gertrude Stein, Marcel Marceau, and Jim Morrisson among others), and of course to have macaroons at Hermé. I also highly recommend a stroll along the banks of the Seine - with an ice-cream in hand from Berthillion. Notable stops on your stroll should include the Marché des Fleurs et Oiseaux on the Left Bank, and the string of pet shops on the Right Bank, which reliably, have puppies sleeping on top of each other in the windows.

Since you asked specifically about places to go dancing - it's not my forte, but a reliable source tells me that Le Pompon, a former synagogue in the 10th arr. is good fun - the bar upstairs plays swing and rockabilly, and downstairs it's more of a hip hop vibe, although sometimes there are live bands and guest DJs. If you want to see and be seen, you could try Le Montana in St Germain des Pres. April is probably a bit early for this, but the Jardin Tino Rossi has outdoor dancing (including tango!) in the summer time.

I couldn't reliably tell you anything about where to go in Rome, as the last time I was there I was a teenager, BUT, I did go to Copenhagen on a work trip last year and I really liked it - full of friendly hipsters - but it is expensive. My recommendations are Soupanaturel for lunch (as the name suggests, only serves soup, and a percentage of profits go to the homeless), Dyrehaven for a slightly scrubbed-up dive bar with excellent Danish beer, the Laundromat Cafe for lounging, reading and drinking, Sweet Treat for coffee and macaroons, and Fiskebaren for the BEST. FISH. EVER.

(Fiskebaren via The Sunday Times UK)

Everyone in Copenhagen cycles, so I'd recommend renting a bike as a fun way to get around the city.

[Editor's Note: I tried to get all the little French accent marks in the right places but I'm sure I missed a few and now I sorta wonder why I bothered.]

At top: Miss Tic via Dreemzology

Best things to do/see/eat in BUENOS AIRES?

Dear ESB,

Since I am a newly married lady (who totally took advantage of BRIDE HULK* to vent by the way) and don't have any wedding-y related things to ask you, I figured I'd ask you about our upcoming belated honeymoon in Argentina. Everyone else seems to be asking you what should I see/do/eat in _____ city, so I'll just jump on the bandwagon if you don't mind.

We are specifically going to Buenos Aires, then Iguazu Falls and then Mendoza, but since the last two are pretty self-explanatory (duh, waterfalls and wine) I'd like to ask you if you know the best things to do/see/eat in Buenos Aires, or if you would be willing to ask your readers (who are a wealth of info, obv.).

Thanks!

*****

Jessica just got engaged in Buenos Aires........! Clearly she's the perfect on to give you a little advice:

Buenos Aires is by far my favorite city in the world. We've been twice—once in 2009 and once last month (a trip from which we came back engaged!!!). When we described our recent South America trip to people, their response was, "wow, that sounds like the trip of a lifetime!" It was, but it wasn't, because we know we'll be going back whenever time and finances allow it. Imagine a city with the cosmopolitan vibe of New York and the architectural beauty of Paris, but where the people are incredibly friendly and welcoming across the board and everything costs about half as much as it does in either of those places.

I realize I'm providing you with about two weeks' worth of activities here. Hopefully a few of them appeal!


Do:

First, if you haven't already, get some tango tunes by Carlos Gardel or Osvaldo Pugliese to listen to while you're getting psyched for your trip. If you love tango a little (or if you're not sure you love it yet), visit Caminito in La Boca (where you're sure to see people tangoing in the street) or take in a tango show. (Your hotel or travel agent can recommend a show. Be forewarned that the majority of the shows are VERY cheesy and touristy though.) If you love tango a lot, take a lesson and/or attend a milonga.

Go shopping! The US Dollar is super-strong in Argentina right now, so it'll go a very long way. Visit Calle Murillo for anything and everything leather—shoes, belts, wallets, coats! From quite a few of the shops along Calle Murillo, you can get a leather jacket custom-made and delivered to your hotel in under 24 hours for $200-400 US, and you can have your pick of coats off the rack starting at much less than that. Typically you get a big discount for paying in cash and an even bigger discount if that cash is in US dollars. The two most famous malls, Galerias Pacifico and Abasto, are worth visiting just as architectural marvels, as is El Ateneo, an enormous bookstore built inside an old theater.

I can't recommend this one enough: take a day trip to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. It's about an hour away by ferry. Colonia's city center is full of beautiful little 16th-century buildings, cobblestone streets, and there are flowers everywhere. There's a lighthouse to climb that gives you an epic panorama of the town and the Rio de la Plata. I admit that I may be slightly biased because Colonia is where my boyfriend asked me to marry him, but trust me when I say that it's the kind of place that brings out that much romance in you. For lunch, get a bottle of Uruguayan tannat and some Colonia cheese at El Buen Suspiro.

We also had an awesome time at the Lujan Zoo, which is a sort of extreme petting zoo where you get into the cage with the tigers, which I recognize is not to everyone's taste.


See:

The major sites, hittable on your own or with a city tour: the big obelisk on Av. 9 de Julio, Plaza de Mayo, Casa Rosada, Plaza de las Naciones Unidas (where the "Floralis Generica" sculpture is), Plaza San Martin, Puente de la Mujer.

La Recoleta Cemetery, the mausoleum where Eva Peron and several other national heroes are buried, is worth a visit. I know, creepy, but the architecture and art there is phenomenal. On weekends there's a giant craft fair nearby where you can easily spend an entire day—great shopping, but also good food and awesome people-watching.

Things we have heard are awesome but have not done: estancia tour, El Tigre, Japanese gardens.


Eat:

Steak steak steak, obvs. There's really no bad meal to be had in BA if a big chunk of grass-fed cow is involved. ("Jugoso" means "medium rare," and "muy jugoso" means "really rare.") La Cabrera, in Palermo, is a little touristy but the meal is epic and the service is wonderful. Make a reservation the night before you go. You can get less fancy, but no less super-tasty, grilled meats of all shapes and sizes at parilladas all over the city. Just find a spot with a big grill in the front window and you can't go wrong.

When you hit your meat limit (or if you are just not a meat person), BA has amazing pasta. Nearly every steakhouse has a lengthy pasta menu in addition to their beef. You should be able to get empanadas almost anywhere, too, and they're equally delicious.

Try to find choripan—an awesome sausage sandwich that you smother with chimichurri. You'll find choripan trucks or stands in most public parks or any big outdoor event, and a lot of lunch spots serve them as well.

And don't skip dessert! Argentina has the best ice cream in the world—superior dairy products plus Italian gelato techniques combine for absolutely otherworldly helado. Un'Altra Volta, Cadore, Freddo, Munchi's, and Persicco are just a few heladerias we tried, but I can't imagine any of them being bad. Dulce de leche flavors will be everywhere and are amazeballs. Freddo has a particularly amazing flavor called "Dulce de Leche Tentación." Dulce de leche is in everything—porteños even put it on toast in the mornings. Alfajores are chocolate-dipped cookies that typically have dulce de leche filling, and they, too, are awesome. You can get them almost anywhere and the prepackaged ones make a great treat to bring back to friends or coworkers.

Like you said, you're probably set for Mendoza, but I do have to give a shout-out to the Tempus Alba Winery. All of the wineries we visited—from enormous multi-vineyard operations to tiny family-owned farms—were phenomenal, but this one was my favorite in terms of friendly staff, tasty wine, and amazing scenery. You can buy bottles at the wineries themselves, and there's something undeniably cool about that, but Mendoza wines are also crazy-cheap at supermarkets in BA. We found delicious, surprisingly high-quality bottles for around $4-5 US, and that was kind of a middle-of-the-road price.

(The gorg photos are all by Lauren McClure, and are all of Buenos Aires, though I have sprinkled them into the post with no particular logic. Lo blatantly disregarded my request for an image of STEAK.)

*Founded by this rad bride.

What should a trio of Aussies do in SAO PAULO?

Hey ESB,

I'm heading to São Paulo for a friend's wedding in December. I'm hoping you or your fine readers can help me out with tips, accommodation, food and bars, day trips, etc.

We have over a week in SP but we can also take off for a night or two, or even day trips out of the city. I've pretty much ruled out overnight trips or anywhere over a three hour flight away just to avoid too much travel hassle. (I know this means we won't see a lot of what Brazil has to offer but that is simply not achievable in two weeks anyway. We're from Australia, we understand how geographically big countries affect your holiday plans.)

Overall we are looking for a fun and relaxing trip and are willing to spend mid-range prices. We will happily part with more money if it will save time and hassle.

A final fashion question. The wedding is formal so I have a long one-shoulder dress to wear. It's very simple so should I fancy it up with a jacket or shawl? Or is it just too hot in December?? How formal is formal in Brazil?

Thanks thanks thanks

*****

The lovely Mari (a real live BRAZILIAN!) stepped up to offer some recommends.

Disclaimer: I'm a little late getting this up for the lady who wrote in, I.E. she's already in SP, but I figured what the hell. We should all go to São Paulo! (For the cocktails alone!)

Here's Mari....

São Paulo is a huge city. It has a population of more than 11 million people, and if we count the metro area that number grows to over 25. Brazil has a large number of immigrants and descendants, so anything and everyone are found there. If you want to eat Greek food, or learn Finnish, or dance like the Italians you can do it there. But I'll try to stay on Brazilian examples or extraordinary international ones.

I need to begin by saying that São Paulo has its fare share of urban violence. I've never had a bad experience, but to ease my conscience I feel like I should mention it. I would advise those same security measures that any big city kid (or experienced tourist) knows by heart: don't wear super expensive flashy jewelry, never keep all of your money in the same place, be mindful of purse and backpacks (especially on public transportation, I have heard quite a few stories about backpacks getting emptied on the subway), don't carry around your original passport (carry a copy), don't flaunt your latest and super expensive phone and camera....you know what I mean?!


Favorite sights are:

Paulista Avenue: is the modern heart of the city, is full of commercial buildings and filled of museums, art galleries, cinemas and shops on the street levels, and it ends at MASP (museum of art of São Paulo) and Trianon Park. I like to make a day of it -- if you like to sleep in, start with MASP and make your way down. MASP has, surprising to some, a great collection of European artists, from Renoir to Cezanne to Picasso. I also recommend the restaurant in the basement, which has an all-you-can-eat buffet with Brazilian food (Feijoada on Saturdays), a great meal for a reasonable price. Walk around Trianon Park, magically 5 degrees Celsius cooler inside. And this time of the year the whole avenue is decorated for Christmas, so stay well until the night to see it and later walk to Augusta Street, perpendicular to Paulista Avenue, which is full of bars, botecos, pubs, clubs, etc.

(Photos: Cidade de São Paulo)

Downtown + Pateo do Colégio (School Yard): You can do it by walking and taking the subway the larger bits. The Cathedral da Sé, a huge Neo-Gothic church, brands the middle of the city (personal opinion time: it is beautiful and makes you feel in the Old World for a moment and brings thoughts of older times, but then I found out it was built in the 50's!! And somehow all the wonderment vanished). Nearby we have the Monastery of São Bento, I have actually never been inside...heheh...but the building is gorgeous  and if you are a careful planner they have an open mass with Gregorian chanting (if that is your thing, I for one would skip it!).

I love Pateo do Colégio! This is a place that fills me up with Brazilian pride. I love the idea that what began as a school founded by a priest and a handful of boys is now the biggest city South of the Ecuador Line in the Americas. There's part of the college still standing, the church and an underground native museum.

Luz + Pinacoteca + Portuguese Language Museum: You can find all these attractions at the Luz subway station, which is very pretty. Pinacoteca is a museum, this time filled with Brazilian work! I'm not sure what sort of experience non-Portuguese speakers would have in The Portuguese Language Museum. They usually pick a author for each month and make a showing of his/her work and life.

Ipiranga: here was where the famous scream for independence from Portugal happened in 1822. Now it houses a museum on Brazilian history and XIX century way of life.

Ibirapuera: is the biggest park around, it has a few museums (and a planetarium) around and in it. But is great for a stroll on weekdays, is insanely full of people on the weekends, and dogs, and kids, and bicycles, and skates...It is just full!


Personal favorites:

Museu da Casa Brasileira (Brazilian House Museum): is a old mansion that nowadays houses art expositions and a permanent furniture showing. They have a lovely restaurant in the back, right by the garden, my family and I love to go on Sundays to have lunch and wander around the gardens. (This is my second museum+restaurant recommendation, you just wait there are more!) 

MIS (Museum of Image and Sound): exactly what the name suggests...hehehe...every time I go there there is something different to see, and they have all these sculptures outside… I have never eaten in the restaurant, but it's on my list for my next trip to São Paulo. The little bistro is always open for a cold drink or a coffee, and they serve lunch until 15:00 (oh yeah in Brazil we use military time).

SubAstor: the greatest cocktail bar! Ever! It is located under the Astor Bar, get the name Subastor?! I always make suggestions to everyone at the table so I can have a taste of everything...hehe...they have a immense variety of drinks and mixology options.

(SubAstor via Time Out São Paulo)

Hecho in México: best Mexican restaurant outside of México! My trips to São Paulo are not complete until I come here. Surprisingly, their margarita is just ordinary, but they have michelada so they're forgiven.

I usually complete my weekend trips with a movie (or theater) or even some shopping, São Paulo has so many things to do.... There are a bunch of options for clubs and late nights entertainment (one of biggest surprises the first time I went to US was that everything closes at 2am, there's no such thing in Brazil if you want to spend the night dancing you can). But when I'm in the city I don't really go out partying....so I really don't have any pointers on the topic.


Ideas for day trips:

Pico do Jaraguá: The highest peak on the metro area is located on a State Park, in the outskirts of the city, about 40 minutes if you believe in Google Maps from Jardim Paulista to the park. You can get up there using the road, or a track. I went once years ago and don't really remember how I got there, but the view alone was worth it.

(Photo: Wikipedia)

Beach: I always go to Guarujá, which is right next to Santos. It has a special place in my heart because I've been there at least once every year of my life, I'm actually curious to hear what international tourists would think about it. The city is filled with locals and people from the area, I have never seen anyone who came from far. If you're looking for a taste of Brazilian beach life this is it. There are urban beaches like Pitangueiras (my family has a summer apartment here), or Enseada and a few more deserts, nature-like beaches.

(Guarujá via IRG)

To answer your fashion question, December is very hot. I usually spend Christmas in the area and only wore a jacket once (!!) in my entire life. Brazilian people are by definition pretty casual, and though we sometimes take an opportunity like a wedding to be fancy, even then our interpretation of formal, black-tie is very broad. I have been to formal wedding parties where even the mother of the bride was wearing a knee length dress. 

I personally don't think that a shawl or jacket is necessary, especially if the weather doesn't fit. I love my country and the people here, but we have no idea how to dress fancy for the cold.

I was very surprised by the lack of soccer inquires...heheheh...If anybody else has more interesting suggestions, add them, please.

<3

(Photo at top: Wikipedia)

Where should we go on our MEXICAN HONEYMOON?

hi esb,

please help! with all of the wedding planning going on, the last thing on my list is trying to find our honeymoon location. i imagine relaxing on a beach while still having some culture and places to check out (no sandals resorts!).

i'm burnt out from doing countless hours of research online for the perfect honeymoon in mexico (preferably in/near the baja california sur area as we'll be flying from california). any advice for hotels/places to check out so that i can narrow down this insane amount of possibility?

thank you for any help that you can give!

*****

My lady Jamie recently went on a fabulous trip to Mexico (which, naturally, was fabulously documented), so I figured I'd just ask her to tell us about it....

Here is what you do: Book a flight into Puerto Vallarta (right out of Tijuana, if you happen to be in San Diego, and wanting to save some pennies), and a stay at Casa Ninamu. Johann, the proprietor, will arrange for you to be picked up at the airport in PV, and driven to Sayulita.

No need to rent a car, you can walk into town, or, if you are feeling lazy, drive the golf cart up the winding dirt road. Once there you should, in no particular order:

-nap on one of the two private beach cabanas
-nap on your own hammock, the only thing separating your living room from your infinity pool
-spend loads of time in your infinity pool
-have the estate's staff* cook you lunch
-have the estate's staff cook you breakfast
-have the estate's staff cook you dinner
-have the estate's staff cook you dinner, again
-have the estate's staff cook you pizza at your own outdoor pizza oven
-if you really want to eat out, sayulita cafe is there for you
-you also have your own kitchen. but why bother?
-take in the impeccable interior design
-enjoy the sound of the rain hitting the awning over your living room, as the light filters through the thatching (are you inside or outside? it is so wonderfully confusing)
-join johann and his wife (one of the world's leading fashion photographers) for cocktails at sunset on their INSANE indoor/outdoor living room/pool/deck (i don't even know what to call it) area while their three tow-headed boys politely play hide and seek nearby and their horse-sized mastiff snoozes on the floor below you
-nap on your roof top bed
-stop being such shut-ins and explore the adorable little cobble stones hippie surfer expat town that is sayulita

-have burritos at burrito revolution
-take the kayak out for a go, it's just sitting there on the beach
-go for a horseback ride, from your front door
-picnic on the crazy expansive and private lawn just steps from your house
-release baby sea turtles smaller than the palm of your hand into the ocean
-take photos at playa de los muertos before sunset, then take a moonlit dip in the calm waters of the magical adjacent beach
-what, you don't want to nap and eat all day? jungle tours. surfing. boat charters. fishing. yoga. but don't waste your time researching it ahead of time. the estate's staff can set you up with everything. 

*the staff is awesome and is there to help you as little or as much as you like. if it is privacy you desire, they will NOT disturb.

(Photos by Jamie Street, also known as 1/2 of Rad + In Love)
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p.s. I've also got readers requesting guides to São Paulo, Bermuda, Buenos Aires and PARIS. Who wants to write a guest post?

A Rather Non-Standard Tour of London

Hi ESB – meeting my fiancé in London for a long weekend at the end of October. He goes to school in Ireland, so we have been to London together before. Looking for some suggestions of things to do/eat outside the standards (we’ve already done Buckingham, London Eye, Westminster, etc.).

Thanks a bunch.

*****

When this reader volunteered to tackle London, I had NO IDEA how far beyond the standard her write-up would be.

I hope you like taxidermy! And jars of moles! And olde-ass pubs! (Okay, I guess olde-ass pubs are pretty classic.)

Anyhoo. Without further ado, here's Patricia.....


Travel:

The first thing to mention (which you already know since you've already been) is that London is big. Luckily the public transport is quite good – provided you don't have a great attachment to the idea of personal space – and you can get pretty much everywhere you'll need to by bus or tube. The tube is very easy to navigate with its iconic map, and it's quicker than the bus, but if you know which bus you want and where to catch it from, that’s a better way of seeing the city (from the top deck at the front) and getting a sense of how the areas bleed together.

On the basis that you will use at least some public transport, then the first thing to do is buy an Oyster card (a swipe card that you can charge up with money for individual tickets or purchase a day/week travelcard on) rather than buying paper tickets which are sold at such a premium I've heard it referred to as a 'tourist tax'.  The few minutes it takes to fill out the form is definitely worth it.

If you are a confident cyclist then give the Boris Bikes a go – it's a relatively new scheme introduced during the reign of our current mayor of blond absurdity, Boris Johnson, where you can pick up a bike at any station across central London and return it to any other docking station around town within the half hour for a small fee. They are fun, particularly in the park, but London is not the most cycle-friendly city and cab and bus drivers can be somewhat aggressive. That said, I am a notorious bike wimp, my husband cycles everywhere and you're probably braver than me.

That said, although London is not 'walkable' in the sense of walking all of it or across it, walking is really the best way to see the city. My favourite longer walk, to see old and new, industrial and fancy aspects that make up London, is along the Regents Canal from Canary Wharf, up through Hackney to Islington, stopping for a drink in Angel, re-joining the canal on the other side, through to Camden, then Regents Park including the zoo and then up past the massive mansions to Little Venice and Paddington (see route here).


Big ones worth doing:

One of the great things about London is the free museums. I know you probably want to avoid the over-touristed honeypots (and rightly so) but there are a few of the big ones that are totally worth visiting.

The British Museum in Bloomsbury is totally one of my favourite places in London and even if the massive collection of Roman, Greek… isn't really your thing, then take a walk through from Senate House to Museum Street as the Great Court is an awesome vaulted space filled with soft cool light and a real contrast to the wood panelling elsewhere.

(Great Court at the British Museum via Foster + Partners)

The Victoria & Albert Museum is one of the Big Three museums just south of Hyde Park (the others being the Natural History Museum, which is great but uncomfortably crowded, and the Science Museum, which has an awesome interactive area in the basement if you've a kid with you). It’s a gorgeous building, has a great collection of fashion, textiles and ceramics among lots more and there are usually some interesting exhibitions on. Also, have lunch in the V&A café with its lovely tiled rooms and pretty decent quiche.

The Museum of London and National Portrait Gallery are also great if you are nearby.  But please do steer clear of Madame Tussauds, the Tower of London and Harrods. Overcrowded and awful.


Bloomsbury – Holborn – The Strand:

If you are into zoology, animals or just taxidermied esoterica then The Grant Museum of Zoology at University College London in Bloomsbury is small but packed to the ceiling with around 67,000 specimens preserved in various ways, including my favourite jar of moles. For just £12 you can also adopt a specimen for a year and have your name displayed on a small plaque in front of the relevant animal (although most of the exciting big ticket items are already taken, we just adopted a lizard that sprays poisonous blood from its eyes for our son).

From the Grant Museum you can walk through Bloomsbury and the British Museum, down to Sir John Soane's Museum just off Lincoln's Inn Fields. It is the lovingly preserved home of architect and collector Sir John Soanes and was described by the Oxford Dictionary of Architecture as “one of the most complex, intricate, and ingenious series of interiors ever conceived” – it's crammed with so many paintings, statues, models and antiques that the house itself has been adjusted in order to integrate and display. Another high volume, small space experience.

A little further down on the Strand, Somerset House is a lovely neo-Classical building (now, incongruously, home to the Her Majesty's Revenue and Customs) around a central courtyard which has fountains and cinema in the summer and skating in the winter and is an oddly quiet space to sit and have a coffee. It also has a terrace out back overlooking the Thames. And the Old Bank of England pub (which used to be the bank of England), right next to the Royal Courts of Justice on the Strand, is quite impressive surroundings.


South Bank - The River

Everyone will tell you to walk along the South Bank and that's because they're right, it's nice. Start at St Pauls, across the Millennium footbridge to the Tate Modern (another big one worth visiting) along the South Bank and up past the British Film Institute, National Film Theatre and the Hayward Gallery to Waterloo Bridge and then Westminster opposite the Houses of Parliament. If you head across the footbridge after Waterloo Bridge to Charing Cross station, stop for a bottle of wine and an illicit affair at a candlelit table under the low stone arches of the cellar at Gordon's wine bar, the 'oldest wine bar in London'.

(Gordon's Wine Bar via Adventures in Pubs)

The Tate Modern has a good permanent collection (including glorious Rothko) and there is also a temporary exhibition, finishing this Sunday 28 October, using the underground spaces below the gallery called 'The Tanks' and designed by Herzog & De Meuron (they of, among other things, the Beijing Olympics Bird's Nest Stadium and this year's Serpentine Pavilion).

The River Thames is geographically and historically very much at the heart of the city – if you like outdoorsy type activities (and have brought waterproofs with you, which, if you haven't you really should – London in the Autumn can be WET) then a different way of seeing parts of the city is by kayak. I have done a sunrise kayak on the Regents Canal and it was an oddly peaceful experience – I haven't braved the Thames, but I want to do this one now.

Pro-tip: the 453 bus is a cheap alternative to a sightseeing bus. You can catch it from Lower Marsh after having an excellent espresso at the a lovely ex-scooter repair shop Scooterworks and it takes an absurdly touristic route from Waterloo, across Westminster Bridge, past the Houses of Parliament, Trafalgar Square, Piccadilly Circus, and Regents Street up to Regents Park where you can hop off and wander down Marylebone High Street which is fancy, but quite nice. Alongside all the organic bakeries there is VV Rouleaux for trimming shopping, Skandium for overpriced Scandinavian style, my favourite, lovely, woodpanelled, organised-by-geographical-area bookstore, Daunt Books, and Tracey Neuls for weird looking shoes. You'll come out onto Wigmore Street at the back of Selfridges department store.
(Bus route here.)

(The Tanks courtesy of the Tate Modern)

Clerkenwell – Barbican

The Barbican is a big arts centre and residential estate built in the 1960s and a famous example of brutalist architecture. It's pretty interesting and you can take an architecture tour on Wednesdays, Thursdays and weekends, and, if you don't fancy the trek out to the glasshouses at Kew Gardens, on weekends you can visit the Barbican conservatory – the second biggest conservatory in London. The arts centre hosts many and various film, music and art exhibitions – currently including the London International Animation Festival.

Around Clerkenwell and the city there are all sorts of old da vinci code sort of stuff including the Temple Church built by the Knights Templar. Have a wander around inner or middle temple if you can – this is where barristers chambers are. Freemasons Hall is between Holborn and Covent Garden. This area also has some cool old pubs including The Jerusalem Tavern (current building dating from 1720) – it's really tiny, so get there well before 5pm if you want to get a seat up at the back. And Ye Olde Mitre built in 1546 behind Hatton Garden – another one to visit early in the day as later it gets full of chainsmoking lawyers in the alley outside.

                                         
Spitalfields – Brick Lane – Hackney:

If you're not interested in big museums and shiny things, then East London is the more interesting part to wander around – Broadway Market and London Fields are full of hipsters and nice coffee. Head to  Columbia Road flower market on a Sunday morning - it is packed full of people but quite fun. The Last Tuesday Society has a shop on Mare Street full of curiosities.

(Little Shop of Horrors via WorthPoint)

Spitalfields Market and the Truman Brewery on Brick Lane are great places to browse around and eat things – particularly curry and a salt beef bagel from the Brick Lane Beigel Bake.

A great aspect of London is the preponderance of parks, so you really should spend some time in one – I think everyone has their 'own' park and my latest greatest discovery is the Tower Hamlets Cemetery Park near Mile End tube. If you're East in the daytime and like woodland and overgrown tombstones then it is definitely worth a wander.

Wilton's Music Hall in Wapping is the oldest surviving Music Hall in London and a good place to go for a drink in the cool old theatrey décor of the Mahogany Bar.

(Salt beef bagel from Brick Lane Beigel Bake by Rob Greig via Time Out)

Sad walrus

As an addendum, as it's waaaaaay South in Forest Hill SE23, but The Horniman Museum is a gem – it has everything from amazing aquariums, to a poor sad taxidermied walrus. [See photo at top]

[Editor's Note: Please feel free to offer more restaurant suggestions in the comments. Patricia shied away, freely admitting that most of the foods she likes "involve offal."]

What should a couple of twentysomethings do in MONTREAL?

Dear ESB,

So I hesitated sending this... after all you are a wedding advice blog and I have no business reading you everyday (read: not engaged). But everyone else is getting travel suggestions and I haven't had time to research my upcoming trip to Montreal with my brother since these pesky boards are occupying my time and we leave as soon as I put down my number 2 pencil.

Have any great can't miss places/food/activities for two mid-twentysomethings exploring Montreal for 3 days?

*****

I immediately emailed Anna (former wedding blogger, current PROFESSOR!), the coolest and only Montrealer I know.

She typed this up for you while riding the bus:

So here's the deal with Montreal: if you ask a local to tell you what "to do" while you're here, you will inevitably get a long list of places to eat. That is our conception of "to do" here. Following in that grand tradition, let me get the non-food-related items out of the way:

1) Walk to the top of the "mountain." The "mountain" in the middle of the city that serves as our namesake is actually pretty puny, so you can stroll up one of the winding and not very steep trails (ideally starting from the Parc Avenue side of it) in about an hour. At the top, there is a big chalet with a lookout that gives you a great view of the city. The mountain is also nice for picnicking, and jogging and stuff, if you're one of those people. (On Sundays there's also this spontaneous drumming shindig at the base of the mountain on Parc called the Tamtams that inevitably gets recommended to out-of-towners: proceed with caution. This is only for people with a high tolerance for the hemp-clad.)

2) Walk around the city's Old Port. It's pretty. In recent years it has been transformed into somewhat of an upscale hangout destination, so it is replete with douchey cocktail bars and sometimes quite cute boutiques.

3) Hip neighbourhoods to wander around in (notice my constant use of the word "wander"? Basically, what there is to do in Montreal, other than eat, is WALK. The two have a wonderfully symbiotic relationship) include: the Plateau (formerly hip now just about fully gentrified), the Mile End (fully gentrified but somehow miraculously still hip), and Villeray (the newest destination for the city's young and haircutted). These neighbourhoods will generally be great places to find cute boutiques, cafes, bars, etc. If you like art books and comic books, I will highly recommend Drawn and Quarterly (the infamous indie comic publisher's) shop on Bernard Street in the Mile End.

(Drawn and Quarterly via The Montréal Buzz)

It is a block away from the bagels you have to eat, which I'll get to in a bit. In terms of neighbourhoods, downtown Montreal is pretty generic and not worthy eating, shopping or hanging in much, although Simon's is a mostly-clothing-oriented department store downtown that is good for getting some inexpensive and on-trend schmatas.

4) For cultural events, theatre, dance, music, art shows, etc., check out the listings at CULT Mtl. There is always cool shit happening in the city, and a lot of it is teeny and grassroots and fun to explore. I don't think that our big museums, for example, are where the interesting stuff is at. If you like contemporary art, then I would recommend our Musée d'art contemporain as your one big museum stop because it has a great collection of 20th century québécois artists, who are genuinely important and worth seeing, but otherwise, nose around smaller galleries and shows that you find in the above listings.

5) If you get tired of walking, our bus and metro system are great, and people who are not afraid of city cycling (I cannot claim to be one of them) love our bike-sharing system, Bixi, for getting around.

Ok, now let's talk about food.

Iconic Montreal food places, where you MUST eat (special dispensation given on some of these if you're a vegetarian):

St-Viateur Bagel: The city's most famous bagel spot and the best bagels in the world (yes, New Yorkers, I just said that.) Open 24 hours, always fresh, amazing. Buy one fresh from the wood-burning oven and you don't need any cream cheese or anything to eat it with; it will be hot and doughy and delicious all on its own.

Schwartz's: The city's famous smoked meat place, it is tiny and packed and really no frills but it is a landmark. Order a semi-lean smoked meat sandwich with a pickle (sour or half-sour) and a black cherry soda. Listen to me on this one. Roll home.

(Schwartz's smoked meat sandwich via Wikipedia)

There is ALWAYS a line up outside this place but it moves fast and is worth it. Go during off peak hours (for a late lunch, for example) and you won't have to wait as long. Your only excuse for skipping this place is if you're a vegetarian. I was a vegetarian for fifteen years and the first time I ate one of these sandwiches I immediately regretted all of them.

Au Pied de Cochon: If you have one splurge meal, do it here. And if you decide to do that, call and make a reservation IMMEDIATELY; this place books up fast! This is probably Montreal's most famous restaurant right now, and reinvents traditional Québécois cuisine in a funky, slightly upscale context. It is in line with the general trend of upscale comfort food, but it is so, so much more, and really uniquely Montreal. SHARE YOUR DISHES (the portions are huge, and so splitting is really the way to do). My favourite dishes are the foie gras balls (they're this teeny amuse-bouche that you MUST try, as I have never seen another place prepare foie gras this way), the duck carpaccio (another starter that I feel is overlooked!), and the duck in a can (duck compressed in a can in a traditional French method with foie gras, cabbage and other goodies; literally the best duck I have ever had).

(Duck in a can! from Au Pied de Cochon via urbanspoon)

But everything is amazing; the pig's foot which is the restaurant's namesake is also an iconic dish. This place is the opposite of vegetarian-friendly and you should probably pop a Zantac preemptively if you want to feel ok afterwards. (I always tell couples heading there on a date that the key is to have sex BEFORE dinner. It is impossible to get any kind of laid afterwards.)

Poutine: You should try some. The most well-known place in the city for this is La Banquise, which is open 24 hours, and thus a great place to hobnob with drunk students. I think the poutine at Frite Alors! or Poutineville (both local chains) is better. But really you can get it anywhere. [Editor's Note: You really do need to try poutine. But you know that, right?]

Jean-Talon Market: This is my favourite of Montreal's city markets. It is probably quieting as the weather cools down, but it's still a beautiful place to gawk at gorgeous produce, and sample some of Montreal and Quebec's incredible charcuterie and cheese. (Seriously, try our local cheeses. We don't pasteurize shit here. It's awesome.) Wander around and get lunch there.

If you're still hungry, you SHOULD TRY:

French food: Predictably, Montreal has a tonne of really good French food. I actually really recommend the restaurant where we got married, Au Petit Extra. It is classic French bistro style and very affordable for the quality of the food (pretty midrange pricewise). Montreal also has a lot of good BYOB restaurants, many of them French, which also helps with cost. Le P'tit Plateau is one of these; it is pricy (even with the BYOB) but really delicious. Les Trois Petits Bouchons is a wine bar/bistro that is also awesome for a splurge. I would get a reservation for all three of these places.

Portuguese: Montreal is the land of Portuguese roast chicken. I love Jano on Saint-Laurent, but there are lots of good places.

Sandwiches: Santropol is a Montreal institution, it is hippie-ish and has weird sandwiches with lots of cheese in them. It has a nice garden in the summer and I totally recommend it. Service is slow, but it is much beloved by anyone who has ever been young and crunchy in this city.

Vegan food (it only seemed fair after all the meat talk): Aux Vivres is a fucking awesome Montreal vegan food institution. It used to be run by sketchy hippies; my husband always tells the story of eating there back in the day, and peering into the kitchen only to see a dude stirring a pot of soup with a single dreadlock hanging down into it. (I KNOW). The good news is it's a very nice, seemingly hygienic place now, and the Mekong sandwich (on chapati!) is my favourite thing there. And the creamsicle smoothie. But my friends and I regularly come to blows re: what their best menu item is, because they're all pretty delicious, which is more than you can usually say for a place like that.

French pastries: I am partial to a little hole in the wall called Fous Desserts (who also happened to be the folks who did our wedding cake), but there's also a really great place called Patisserie Rhubarbe around the corner from them that is also excellent, as well as Les Copains D'Abord. On the not-just-French-bakery front, there is also a relatively new little place near my house that I am totally in love with – it's called De Farine et de L'Eau Fraiche and is just the cutest bakery/cafe in the world with awesome cookies and stuff.

(Ice cream sandwiches from Fous Desserts via Montreal Best Food Ever)

Bars: Ok I am going to suck at recommending bars, since I only really ever go to brewpubs anymore (the side effect of being married to a brewer). If you like brewpubs, then you must hit up Dieu Du Ciel  (by far the best brewpub in town) and Cheval Blanc (my favourite bar all around, for quality of beer, atmosphere, music, etc.  It is cool without being intimidating and a chill place to hang for a while. I also love it because it's within stumbling distance of my house, which is not super helpful for you). If you prefer dive bars, I am partial to the Copacabana on St-Laurent, and if you want "cool" bars, then there are a number in the Mile End and Villeray that will probably satisfy you and that I know nothing about.

Brunch: Montreal is hardcore into brunch. Reservoir (also a brewpub, but their brunch is much better than their beer) has my favourite, but it's pretty heavy, so only do it if you're up for it. Also gets crowded. Around the corner from there is Laika, which also has a great brunch that is a bit more traditional but still very creative. Lawrence is reputed to have the best brunch in town, but I have yet to try it and find it a bit pricy; that said, everyone else raves.

If you are hanging out in the old port, you will likely end up surrounded by tourist traps for lunch. Check out Olive and Gourmando, they have excellent sandwiches and other lunch foods and baked goods.

If you want another food splurge, the other very talked about elevated-rustic-food restaurant in town is Joe Beef. It is like the English-speaking cousin to Au Pied de Cochon. I have never been there, but people love it.

Here's the thing though: Montreal has become a fancy food city in recent years, with the rise of foodie culture and all that, but this is fundamentally a city of immigrants and therefore immigrant hole in the wall restos. That is what I love about food in this city – some of my favourite places are dirt cheap little mom and pop hole in the walls, and they are what makes this a great food city. So if there is a specific cuisine you love or are looking for, feel free to comment and ask for recs. We have a lot of great, teeny tiny little places here.

Also, I assume that you've already booked a place to stay, but if you haven't, or if anyone else who is planning on visiting here needs recommendations:  several friends have stayed at this place in my 'hood (which is extremely central) called Victorian Heritage B&B and they've loved it. PLUS IT HAS A SECRET PASSAGEWAY!!! I am not joking! If boutique hotels are more your thing, there are a tonne of those too, but they won't have SECRET PASSAGEWAYS!!!

Man, this is already long enough. I could go on. I hope the recommendations help, and enjoy the best city in the world. (We can be kind of an arrogant bunch.)

Photo at top by Photography and More
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p.s. You guys, I have so many requests for city guides: Barcelona, Paris, London, São Paulo, Bermuda, Buenos Aires. Vegas. Email me if you wanna write one.